Emulsifier

Ceteth-20

INCI: CETETH-20

Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A surfactant that helps formulations cleanse and blend oils with water

Best For Skin Types

All

Addresses

Cleansing, Product formulation

Usage Frequency

As part of daily skincare routine

What Is Ceteth-20?

Ceteth-20 is a nonionic surfactant derived from cetyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol commonly sourced from plant or animal origins. In skincare formulations, it functions as an emulsifier and cleanser, helping to combine water and oil-based ingredients into stable systems that would otherwise separate.

As a polyoxyethylene ether, ceteth-20 has a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and lipophilic (oil-loving) tail structure. This dual nature allows it to reduce surface tension and facilitate the dispersion of oils into aqueous solutions—a key role in cleansers and creams.

How It Works

Ceteth-20 operates by positioning itself at the interface between oil and water phases. Its water-loving end orients towards the aqueous portion while its oil-loving end attracts fatty substances, effectively bridging the two. This allows oils to be suspended evenly throughout a water-based formula rather than separating to the surface.

In cleansing applications, ceteth-20 similarly surrounds oily dirt and sebum, lifting them away from the skin so they can be rinsed away with water. Research suggests it can also form nanostructured systems—such as liquid crystals—when combined with water and oils, which may enhance how formulations interact with the skin's surface.

Clinical Evidence & References

Research indicates that ceteth-20 can form stable microemulsions and liquid crystalline structures at relatively low concentrations. Studies using polarised light microscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering have confirmed it creates nanoscale systems structurally similar to biological membranes, which theoretically may improve skin interaction and ingredient delivery.

However, published dermatological efficacy data specific to ceteth-20 in skincare is limited. Most evidence comes from pharmaceutical delivery studies and formulation characterisation research rather than direct skin benefit trials. Its safety profile is generally recognised as acceptable in cosmetic use, though individual sensitivities remain possible.

How to Use

Ceteth-20 typically appears in cleansers, emulsions, and other multi-phase formulations rather than serums or single-phase products. There is no specific usage frequency guidance required; simply use the product as directed by the manufacturer. It is compatible with most other skincare ingredients and does not require any special application technique.

Safety & Precautions

Ceteth-20 is generally well-tolerated in cosmetic formulations. As with any ingredient, individuals with known sensitivities to surfactants or emulsifiers should patch-test first, particularly if prone to irritation or barrier sensitivity.

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Other forms of Ceteth-20

These appear on ingredients lists under different names but are the same substance. Ceteth-20 is the common form.

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