Skin Conditioning

Erucic Acid

INCI: ERUCIC ACID

Reviewed by Rosie · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A long-chain fatty acid that helps condition and support skin barrier function

Best For Skin Types

All, Dry, Sensitive

Addresses

Dryness, Barrier repair, Hydration

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Erucic Acid?

Erucic acid is a naturally occurring monounsaturated fatty acid with 22 carbon atoms in its chain. It is found in plant oils, particularly rapeseed oil, and is used in skincare formulations as a skin conditioning agent. In cosmetic applications, it functions to help maintain skin hydration and support the skin's natural lipid barrier.

As a long-chain fatty acid, erucic acid works alongside other lipids to reinforce the structural integrity of the skin's outermost layers, helping to lock in moisture and maintain skin smoothness.

How It Works

Erucic acid integrates into the skin's lipid matrix, the layer of fats that sits between skin cells. This helps to fill gaps and reinforce the barrier function, much like mortar between bricks. By doing so, it reduces the amount of water that evaporates from the skin's surface.

The ingredient's long-chain structure makes it particularly effective as an occlusive, meaning it forms a protective layer that slows water loss without necessarily being absorbed deeply into the skin.

Clinical Evidence & References

Research on erucic acid has primarily focused on its metabolic role in the body rather than its topical skincare effects. Studies indicate that healthy skin can metabolise long-chain fatty acids efficiently, converting them to shorter-chain fatty acids the body can use more readily.

Direct clinical evidence on erucic acid's topical benefits in skincare formulations is limited. Its inclusion in cosmetics is based on established understanding of how long-chain fatty acids function as skin conditioners and barrier-support ingredients, rather than extensive clinical trial data specific to this ingredient alone.

How to Use

Erucic acid is typically used as part of a formulated product rather than as a standalone ingredient. It works best when combined with other hydrating and conditioning agents in moisturisers, serums, or barrier-repair products. Apply to damp skin or layer with other products to optimise its hydrating effect. Concentrations are usually kept low within formulations, so follow the product instructions for best results.

Safety & Precautions

Erucic acid is generally well-tolerated in skincare formulations. No significant safety concerns have been reported for topical use at cosmetic concentrations.

Frequently Asked Questions

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