Erucic Acid
INCI: ERUCIC ACID
Reviewed by Rosie · Last updated 14 Aug 2026
A long-chain fatty acid that helps condition and support skin barrier function
Best For Skin Types
All, Dry, Sensitive
Addresses
Usage Frequency
Daily
What Is Erucic Acid?
Erucic acid is a naturally occurring monounsaturated fatty acid with 22 carbon atoms in its chain. It is found in plant oils, particularly rapeseed oil, and is used in skincare formulations as a skin conditioning agent. In cosmetic applications, it functions to help maintain skin hydration and support the skin's natural lipid barrier.
As a long-chain fatty acid, erucic acid works alongside other lipids to reinforce the structural integrity of the skin's outermost layers, helping to lock in moisture and maintain skin smoothness.
How It Works
Erucic acid integrates into the skin's lipid matrix, the layer of fats that sits between skin cells. This helps to fill gaps and reinforce the barrier function, much like mortar between bricks. By doing so, it reduces the amount of water that evaporates from the skin's surface.
The ingredient's long-chain structure makes it particularly effective as an occlusive, meaning it forms a protective layer that slows water loss without necessarily being absorbed deeply into the skin.
Clinical Evidence & References
Research on erucic acid has primarily focused on its metabolic role in the body rather than its topical skincare effects. Studies indicate that healthy skin can metabolise long-chain fatty acids efficiently, converting them to shorter-chain fatty acids the body can use more readily.
Direct clinical evidence on erucic acid's topical benefits in skincare formulations is limited. Its inclusion in cosmetics is based on established understanding of how long-chain fatty acids function as skin conditioners and barrier-support ingredients, rather than extensive clinical trial data specific to this ingredient alone.
Published Research
How to Use
Erucic acid is typically used as part of a formulated product rather than as a standalone ingredient. It works best when combined with other hydrating and conditioning agents in moisturisers, serums, or barrier-repair products. Apply to damp skin or layer with other products to optimise its hydrating effect. Concentrations are usually kept low within formulations, so follow the product instructions for best results.
Safety & Precautions
Frequently Asked Questions
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