Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate

Ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate is a synthetic emollient derived from stearic acid (a naturally occurring fatty acid) combined with ethylhexyl alcohol. It belongs to a class of ingredients known as ester oils, designed to mimic the skin's natural lipids.In skincare formulations, it functions as both an emollient and skin conditioning agent. Its role is to soften and smooth the skin surface whilst helping to lock in moisture, without leaving a greasy or occlusive residue.

Ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate works by depositing a thin, occlusive layer on the skin surface. This layer reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL)—the evaporation of water from the skin—while allowing the skin to feel soft rather than waxy.Because it is an ester oil, it has a lower molecular weight than heavier plant oils, meaning it spreads more easily and absorbs into the skin more readily, making it popular in formulations where a light, non-comedogenic texture is desired.

This ingredient is typically found in concentrations well below 5% in finished skincare products. It is usually part of a broader emollient base rather than a standalone treatment. Use as directed by the specific product formulation—usually once or twice daily, depending on skin type and the product category (moisturiser, serum, primer).

Ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate is generally well-tolerated and has a strong safety history in cosmetic use. It is non-irritating for the vast majority of users, though those with very sensitive skin or specific fragrance sensitivities should patch-test first.