Emollient

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract

INCI: GLYCYRRHIZA URALENSIS EXTRACT

Reviewed by Rosie · Last updated 2 Jun 2026

A plant extract with potential antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties

Best For Skin Types

All, Dry, Sensitive

Addresses

Dryness, Sensitivity, Oxidative stress

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract?

Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract is derived from the root of Uralian licorice, a plant native to Central Asia. The extract contains bioactive compounds including flavonoids and saponins, which give it a range of potential biological activities relevant to skincare.

In cosmetic formulations, this ingredient functions primarily as an emollient and skin conditioner, helping to soften and maintain the skin's moisture balance. It appears in a small proportion of skincare products, suggesting it remains a relatively niche ingredient in the industry.

How It Works

The bioactive compounds in Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract, particularly flavonoids and saponins, appear to work through multiple pathways. Their antioxidant activity helps counteract reactive oxygen species, which can accelerate skin ageing and damage. This protective mechanism may be especially relevant where skin is exposed to environmental stressors.

Regarding melanin production, research suggests the extract may influence the biochemical pathways involved in melanin synthesis, though the precise mechanisms in living skin remain an area for further investigation. As an emollient, the extract functions to coat the skin, reducing water loss and maintaining suppleness.

Clinical Evidence & References

In vitro studies demonstrate that Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract exhibits antioxidant properties and may influence melanin production pathways. Heat-treated versions of the extract have shown enhanced bioactivity in laboratory conditions. However, these findings are primarily from controlled cell-based experiments rather than human skin studies.

Evidence for its use in cosmetics is limited. Whilst the ingredient's traditional use and laboratory activity are promising, clinical trials demonstrating efficacy in human subjects are sparse. Safety assessments suggest the ingredient is generally well-tolerated at cosmetic concentrations, though dose-dependent toxicity has been noted at very high levels in research settings unrepresentative of skincare use.

How to Use

This ingredient is typically found at low concentrations in formulations and is best used as part of a comprehensive skincare routine rather than relied upon as a single active treatment. It works well in moisturisers, serums, and toners where it can contribute to overall skin conditioning and antioxidant protection. Allow time to assess any changes to your skin, as results from botanical extracts are often subtle and gradual.

Safety & Precautions

Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract is generally well-tolerated in cosmetic concentrations. Those with known sensitivity to licorice or related plants should exercise caution.

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