Best For Skin Types
Sensitive
Addresses
Effective Concentrations
1-3%
Usage Frequency
As directed by healthcare professional
What Is Hydrocortisone?
Hydrocortisone is a naturally occurring corticosteroid hormone produced by the adrenal glands. In skincare, it is a pharmaceutical active ingredient used to address inflammatory skin conditions. It works by suppressing the immune response and reducing the inflammatory cascade in the skin.
Hydrocortisone is typically found in prescription and over-the-counter topical products at concentrations between 1% and 3%. It is relatively uncommon in general skincare formulations, appearing in only around 0.1% of products, as its use is regulated and most often reserved for clinical or medical skincare contexts.
How It Works
Hydrocortisone works by binding to glucocorticoid receptors in skin cells, which dampens the inflammatory cascade. This reduces the production of inflammatory mediators and suppresses immune cell activity in the skin, lowering redness, swelling and associated sensations like itching.
The degree to which hydrocortisone penetrates different skin layers can be influenced by formulation design and application method. Research using liposomal delivery systems has demonstrated that hydrocortisone can be targeted to specific skin layers—the epidermis, living layers, or deeper tissues—depending on how the formulation is structured. Pre-hydrating the skin (such as with water soaking) before application may also enhance its absorption into the stratum corneum and epidermis.
Clinical Evidence & References
Research indicates that hydrocortisone behaves differently in healthy versus diseased skin. Studies on psoriatic and eczematous skin show that barrier disruption in these conditions alters how the ingredient is absorbed and distributed within the skin. In diseased skin with compromised barrier function, hydrocortisone is retained more within the stratum corneum and epidermis rather than penetrating to deeper layers.
The 'soak and smear' method—applying hydrocortisone after water hydration—appears to support its efficacy in clinical practice, with research suggesting enhanced absorption into affected skin layers. However, most evidence concerns its use in medical and dermatological contexts rather than preventative skincare.
Published Research
How to Use
Hydrocortisone should be used as directed by a healthcare professional or product instructions, typically applied to affected areas once or twice daily. For best results, some evidence suggests applying it to freshly hydrated or damp skin, which may enhance penetration. Avoid prolonged use without medical supervision, as corticosteroids carry specific safety considerations with extended application.
Safety & Precautions
Frequently Asked Questions
From the Clinic
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