Cleansing Agent

Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin

INCI: ISOSTEAROYL HYDROLYZED KERATIN

Reviewed by Emma · Last updated 2 Jun 2026

A keratin-derived conditioning agent that strengthens and smooths hair and skin

Best For Skin Types

All, Dry, Mature

Addresses

Dryness, Rough texture, Barrier repair

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin?

Isostearoyl hydrolyzed keratin is a modified form of keratin — the fibrous protein that makes up hair, skin and nails. The keratin has been broken down (hydrolyzed) into smaller fragments and then chemically bonded to isostearic acid, a fatty acid. This process makes the ingredient more compatible with cosmetic formulations and allows it to penetrate and adhere to skin and hair more effectively.

In skincare and haircare products, it functions primarily as a conditioning agent and skin-conditioning agent. It can also act as a mild cleanser or surfactant in some formulations, helping to lift dirt and oil without stripping.

How It Works

The hydrolyzed keratin fragments are small enough to adhere to the outer layers of skin, where they form a light, conditioning film. This film helps trap moisture and smooth the skin surface, similar to how the ingredient works in haircare products.

The isostearoyl (fatty acid) component enhances spreadability and allows the ingredient to integrate into oil and water-based formulations. Together, these components create a conditioning effect that is gentler and more cosmetically elegant than larger, unmodified keratin molecules.

Clinical Evidence & References

Published clinical research specifically on isostearoyl hydrolyzed keratin in skincare is limited. However, hydrolyzed keratin more broadly has been studied as a conditioning and film-forming agent, with evidence supporting its ability to improve skin smoothness and water retention when used in appropriate concentrations.

The ingredient is generally recognised as safe and well-tolerated in cosmetics. Its conditioning properties are well-established in the haircare industry, and similar mechanisms are expected to apply in skincare formulations, though more targeted skin studies would strengthen the evidence base.

How to Use

This ingredient is typically found in rinse-off cleansers, conditioners, and leave-on moisturisers. If using a cleanser containing it, apply to damp skin, massage gently, and rinse thoroughly. In conditioners or moisturisers, apply to clean skin and allow it to absorb. It works well in layered routines and can be used daily as part of your regular skincare regimen.

Safety & Precautions

Generally well-tolerated across skin types. Very rarely, individuals with extreme sensitivity to proteins may experience mild irritation, though this is uncommon. Suitable for use alongside other active ingredients.

Frequently Asked Questions

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