Lecithin

Lecithin in skin care formulations serves a variety of roles including functioning as an emollient (think softening), water-binding agent (to boost hydration), and emulsifying agent (to help water + oil ingredients mesh better in a formula). Lecithin is naturally present in many living organisms, but in cosmetic formulas it’s almost always derived from plants such as soy, sunflower or rapeseed.

Lecithin’s beneficial components include phospholipids (which convey skin-restoring benefits), fatty acids and triglycerides that can help replenish skin. Lecithin can also be used to encapsulate a wide range of active ingredients allowing for a better dermal delivery system.

Lecithin’s appearance as a raw material varies based on the origin and extraction process, but in cosmetic use it typically presents as a viscous liquid or as powder. In a safety assessment conducted in 2020, the highest concentration of lecithin that was reported was 50% in a leave-on foot product, which was deemed safe. Facial skin care products typically safely contain much lower concentrations than that, usually between 0.5-2%.