Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12
INCI: PENTASODIUM TETRACARBOXYMETHYL HEPTADECANOYL DIPEPTIDE-12
Reviewed by Emma · Last updated 2 Jun 2026
Also known as: Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12
A peptide derivative designed to help regulate sebum production and manage oily skin
Best For Skin Types
Oily, Combination, Acne-prone
Addresses
Usage Frequency
Daily
What Is Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Heptadecanoyl Dipeptide-12?
Pentasodium tetracarboxymethyl heptadecanoyl dipeptide-12 is a synthetic peptide conjugate — a long-chain fatty acid attached to a short peptide sequence. It belongs to a class of ingredients engineered to interact with skin's sebaceous (oil-producing) glands.
This ingredient is classified as antiseborrhoeic, meaning it is intended to help reduce excess sebum production. It works at a cellular level rather than simply absorbing oil from the skin's surface.
How It Works
The ingredient is believed to interact with sebaceous gland activity, potentially influencing the cellular processes that regulate sebum synthesis and secretion. The peptide component may signal skin cells to moderate oil production, while the fatty acid chain helps the molecule penetrate and remain active in the skin.
Rather than stripping oils, it aims to optimise the skin's natural sebum regulation, which is why it is considered suitable for long-term use in skincare routines.
Clinical Evidence & References
Published clinical data specifically on this ingredient is limited in the peer-reviewed literature. However, the ingredient is derived from established peptide chemistry and has been used in skincare formulations for sebum management for several years.
Efficacy claims are primarily supported by ingredient supplier data and small-scale testing rather than large-scale independent studies. Those with oily or congested skin may observe results over 4–8 weeks of consistent use, though individual responses vary.
How to Use
This ingredient is typically found in serums, moisturisers, and specialist treatments for oily skin. Apply to clean skin once or twice daily as directed by the product instructions. It works best as part of a consistent routine; results are not immediate and develop over several weeks. Pair it with a suitable moisturiser to avoid over-drying the skin.
Safety & Precautions
Frequently Asked Questions
From the Clinic
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