Soothing Agents

Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract

INCI: PHAEODACTYLUM TRICORNUTUM EXTRACT

Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 2 Jun 2026

A marine diatom extract rich in antioxidants and carotenoids for skin protection

Best For Skin Types

All, Sensitive, Dry, Combination

Addresses

Redness, Sensitivity, Dryness, Hydration

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract?

Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract is derived from a diatom—a single-celled marine microalga—commonly found in ocean ecosystems. The extract is particularly valued for its high concentration of xanthophylls, a class of carotenoid pigments, notably fucoxanthin. These compounds give the extract its antioxidant and photoprotective properties.

In skincare formulations, this ingredient functions as a humectant and soothing agent. It works to support skin hydration and help calm irritated or stressed skin, whilst the carotenoids provide antioxidant defence against environmental stressors.

How It Works

The extract's primary active compounds—particularly fucoxanthin—work through multiple mechanisms. As antioxidants, they scavenge free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that accumulate in skin when exposed to UV radiation and environmental pollutants. This antioxidant action helps reduce oxidative stress, a key driver of skin inflammation and damage.

At a cellular level, fucoxanthin appears to influence inflammatory signalling pathways in skin cells, particularly the IL-6/STAT3 pathway. By modulating this pathway and suppressing the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, the extract may help calm skin irritation from within. Additionally, the extract's humectant properties allow it to draw moisture into the skin, supporting hydration and barrier function.

Clinical Evidence & References

Research on Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract shows promise, though evidence remains emerging. In vitro studies have confirmed high antioxidant activity across multiple assays (ORAC, FRAP, TEAC) and demonstrated photostability against UVA and UVB radiation. In cell culture models, fucoxanthin extracted from the algae showed anti-inflammatory effects by suppressing pro-inflammatory markers (IL-6 and IL-1β) and modulating key signalling pathways.

Animal and in vitro human skin models have shown the extract and its derived extracellular vesicles may help protect against oxidative damage induced by UV exposure and other stressors. However, clinical trials on human skin remain limited. The evidence suggests the ingredient has genuine protective potential, but more robust human studies would help establish its practical efficacy in skincare formulations at typical use concentrations.

How to Use

Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract is typically incorporated into serums, essences, moisturisers and sun protection products. As it functions as a humectant and soothing agent, it pairs well with other antioxidants and can be used both morning and evening. For best results, apply to clean skin before heavier creams or oils to allow proper absorption. There is no established upper limit for frequency; most products containing this ingredient are suitable for daily use.

Safety & Precautions

Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract is generally well-tolerated in cosmetic use. In vitro safety assessments have shown no significant toxicity. As with any active ingredient, individuals with known sensitivities to marine-derived ingredients or algae should patch test before broader application.

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