Emulsifier

Polyglyceryl-20 Octaisononanoate

INCI: POLYGLYCERYL-20 OCTAISONONANOATE

Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A synthetic surfactant that cleanses and stabilises formulations

Best For Skin Types

All, Oily, Combination

Addresses

Oil control

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Polyglyceryl-20 Octaisononanoate?

Polyglyceryl-20 octaisononanoate is a synthetic surfactant derived from polyglycerin and fatty acids. It belongs to a class of mild cleansing agents designed to remove oils and impurities from the skin without excessive stripping.

In skincare formulations, it functions primarily as a cleanser and emulsifier—helping to break down sebum and makeup whilst keeping water and oil-based ingredients evenly distributed throughout a product. It is commonly found in cleansers, micellar waters, and makeup removers.

How It Works

Surfactants like polyglyceryl-20 octaisononanoate have a dual chemical nature—one end is attracted to oil, the other to water. This allows them to surround oil droplets and suspend them in water-based solutions, making it possible to rinse away makeup and sebum with water alone.

Because it is considered a mild surfactant, it is designed to cleanse without severely disrupting the skin barrier, though thoroughness of rinsing and individual skin sensitivity remain important factors in overall tolerance.

Clinical Evidence & References

Evidence specific to polyglyceryl-20 octaisononanoate in skincare is limited. However, the broader category of polyglyceryl esters and mild surfactants has been studied for cleansing efficacy and skin compatibility. Research suggests that well-formulated surfactants can effectively remove lipophilic substances whilst maintaining barrier integrity when used appropriately.

As with any cleansing ingredient, individual response varies. Those with compromised or sensitive skin barriers may experience irritation, and appropriate rinsing is important to prevent residue buildup.

How to Use

This ingredient is typically encountered in rinse-off products such as cleansers, micellar waters, and makeup removers. Ensure thorough rinsing to remove all product residue. In leave-on formulations, it will be present at lower concentrations. If used in a cleanser, follow with appropriate toning and moisturising steps suited to your skin.

Safety & Precautions

Polyglyceryl-20 octaisononanoate is generally well-tolerated and considered safe for cosmetic use. Those with sensitive or barrier-compromised skin should patch test, as with any new cleanser, and ensure thorough rinsing.

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