Emulsifier

Polysorbate 20

Reviewed by Daisy · Last updated 18 Aug 2026

Used as a mild cleansing agent | Derived from lauric acid, the primary fatty acid in coconuts

What Is Polysorbate 20?

In skin care, polysorbate 20 belongs to a group of cleansing agents most often derived from lauric acid, which is a medium-chain triglyceride (a type of fatty acid) found in coconuts.

Polysorbates for skin function as emulsifiers and have mild surfactant properties; some polysorbates are derived from the food ingredient sorbitol, which occurs naturally in many fruits, while others have a fatty acid component.

In addition to its use in both leave-on and rinse-off skin care products, polysorbate 20 is also used as a food additive to create a “spreading” feel (such as in cooling mint drops). Because of its stability, it is also used in drug delivery systems for oral medications to help keep them stable in the presence of digestive enzymes.

Though there have been some concerns raised about the safety of polysorbate 20, but the independent Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has ruled it safe as used in cosmetics. The highest concentration of polysorbate 20 as used in cosmetics is in spray deodorants, where it is used in a concentration of 4%.

Clinical Evidence & References

Published Research

  • Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, January 2021, epublication []
  • Children, December 2019, epublication []
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review, July 2015, pages 1-48 []
  • Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, April 2013, Volume 104, pages 200-206 []
  • Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, July 2011, Volume 10, Issue 3, pages 281-288 []

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Other forms of Polysorbate 20

These appear on ingredients lists under different names but are the same substance. Polysorbate 20 is the common form.

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