Emulsifier

Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate

INCI: SODIUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE

Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A modified starch that stabilises formulations and absorbs excess moisture

Best For Skin Types

All, Oily, Combination

Addresses

Oil control, Shine reduction

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate?

Sodium starch octenylsuccinate is a modified starch derived from corn or potato starch. The starch has been chemically altered through a process called octenylsuccinylation, which makes it water-soluble and gives it film-forming and absorbent properties. This ingredient is rarely the star of a formulation; instead, it works behind the scenes as a functional additive.

In skincare products, sodium starch octenylsuccinate serves multiple roles: it helps absorb excess oils and moisture, stabilises emulsions (keeping water and oil phases mixed), and adjusts the thickness of a formula. It appears in roughly 0.2% of skincare products, most commonly in mattifying powders, lightweight serums, and oil-control formulations.

How It Works

Sodium starch octenylsuccinate is a modified polymer with both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) regions. This dual nature allows it to sit at the interface between water and oil phases in a formula, keeping them evenly dispersed rather than separating.

When applied to skin, the starch particles have a porous structure that can absorb sebum and perspiration, creating a drier, more mattified appearance. It does not penetrate the skin or alter skin chemistry; it works purely at the surface.

Clinical Evidence & References

Safety data on sodium starch octenylsuccinate and its related aluminium salt form show no significant adverse effects in dermal or systemic studies. When used as a food additive, the sodium salt is recognised as a modified food starch with established safety parameters.

Evidence specifically addressing efficacy in skincare formulations is limited. Research has focused mainly on its use as an emulsion stabiliser in spray-dried powders and food systems, where it performs well. Its absorbent and mattifying properties are supported by its chemical structure, but formal clinical trials in skincare products are sparse.

How to Use

Sodium starch octenylsuccinate is a formula ingredient rather than an active to be chosen independently. Look for it in products designed for oil control or mattifying, particularly powders, primers, and lightweight serums. If your skin is very dry or sensitive, start with products containing this ingredient at lower concentrations, as it may feel drying with repeated use.

Safety & Precautions

Sodium starch octenylsuccinate is generally well-tolerated and carries a low irritation risk. Those with corn or starch sensitivities should check product formulations, though reactions are uncommon.

Frequently Asked Questions

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