Emulsifier

Steareth-20

INCI: STEARETH-20

Reviewed by Daisy · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A mild surfactant that helps cleanse and stabilise emulsions in skincare formulas

Best For Skin Types

All, Sensitive, Dry, Combination

Addresses

Redness, Sensitivity, Oil control

Effective Concentrations

0.5–2%

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Steareth-20?

Steareth-20 is a non-ionic surfactant derived from stearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It functions as both a cleansing agent and an emulsifier—helping oil and water-based ingredients mix together in formulations. You'll find it in cleansers, micellar waters, and some moisturisers where stability and gentle cleansing are priorities.

Non-ionic surfactants like this one are generally considered milder than their ionic counterparts, which is why they appear frequently in skincare designed for sensitive or compromised skin barriers.

How It Works

Steareth-20 works by reducing surface tension between oil and water molecules. One end of its molecular structure is water-loving (hydrophilic) whilst the other is oil-loving (lipophilic). This allows it to surround oil droplets and lift them away from the skin or suspend them in a cleanser, ready for rinsing.

In formulations, it also acts as a bridge between incompatible ingredients, keeping moisturisers and serums homogeneous and preventing the product from separating over time.

Clinical Evidence & References

Limited direct clinical evidence exists for steareth-20 in isolation. However, non-ionic surfactants as a class have been well-studied and are generally regarded as safer for skin than anionic or cationic alternatives. They are less likely to disrupt the stratum corneum or cause irritation, making them a pragmatic choice in mild cleansing products.

Most evidence for this ingredient comes from cosmetic chemistry research and safety assessments rather than dedicated clinical trials on skin efficacy. It is included in many dermatologist-recommended formulations, suggesting acceptance within the skincare community.

How to Use

Steareth-20 is typically used in leave-on products (moisturisers, serums) or rinse-off cleansers at low concentrations. If you use a cleanser containing this ingredient, apply to damp skin, massage gently, and rinse thoroughly with water. There is no need for special timing or frequency adjustments based on this ingredient alone.

Safety & Precautions

Steareth-20 is generally well-tolerated and non-irritating at typical cosmetic concentrations. It is not classified as a skin sensitiser and poses minimal risk for most people, though patch testing is sensible if you have very reactive skin.

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