Ascorbyl Retinoate

Ascorbyl retinoate is a hybrid ingredient that chemically combines retinoic acid (vitamin A) with ascorbic acid (vitamin C) into a single molecule. This co-drug approach aims to deliver the benefits of both compounds whilst potentially improving stability compared to vitamin C alone.Once applied to skin, the ingredient is designed to break down into its constituent parts through enzymatic activity in the skin, releasing active retinoic acid and ascorbic acid where they can work on skin concerns. As an antioxidant, it helps protect against environmental damage whilst also supporting the skin…

Antioxidant. Good for Oily Skin

Ascorbyl retinoate works through enzymatic breakdown in the skin. When applied topically, skin enzymes gradually hydrolyse the ingredient, separating the retinoic acid from the ascorbic acid. This allows both compounds to exert their individual effects: vitamin A promotes cell turnover and collagen remodelling, whilst vitamin C acts as a potent antioxidant.By combining both molecules, ascorbyl retinoate aims to improve the stability of vitamin C (which degrades easily in formulations) whilst delivering retinoid benefits in a more stabilised form than free retinoic acid.

Start with lower concentrations if you are new to retinoids, as the skin needs time to acclimate. Apply to clean, dry skin in the evening, and use a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day, as vitamin A increases sun sensitivity. If combining with other active ingredients, introduce ascorbyl retinoate gradually and monitor your skin's response. It can be used daily once your skin has adjusted, though some prefer 2-3 times per week initially.

Ascorbyl retinoate is generally well-tolerated, though retinoids can cause initial irritation, dryness, or sensitivity in some users. Avoid during pregnancy and breastfeeding, and discontinue if persistent irritation occurs. Always use sun protection when using retinoid products. If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, please check with us first — [email protected].