Behenic Acid
Reviewed by Emma · Last updated 18 Aug 2026
Also known as: docosanoic acid
A saturated fatty acid primarily used as a thickener and opacifying agent | Sometimes used as a replacement for the lighter-weight ingredient stearic acid
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What Is Behenic Acid?
Behenic acid is a fatty acid that is used as a thickener, cleansing agent, and opacifier in cosmetics. Also known as docosanoic acid, this ingredient may be plant-derived or synthetic. It’s a major component of moringa oil and is also found in peanut oil.
The saturated nature of this long-chain (more than 20 carbon molecules) wax-like fatty acid is what gives it opacifying and texture-enhancing properties. It is sometimes used as an alternative to stearic acid, a decision dependent on desired aesthetics.
Despite this being a saturated fatty acid, its lower molecular weight and affinity for skin enable it to enhance the penetration of other ingredients without posing a risk of irritation.
Although also categorized as a surfactant (cleansing agent) behenic acid is typically used with pure surfactants to create fatty acid-enhanced oil-gel textures that can capably yet gently remove excess oil and long-wearing, more tenacious ingredients.
Usage levels of behenic acid in cosmetics range from 0.024–22%. Products like lipstick that may lead to incidental ingestion may contain up to 14% behenic acid. All of these amounts are considered safe for skin.
Benefits for Your Skin
Clinical Evidence & References
Published Research
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Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, February 2020, pages 874–884 [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0021979719312986]
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Experimental Dermatology, January 2017, pages 36-43 [https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/exd.13116]
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Biophysical Journal, June 2015, pages 2670-2679 [http://www.cell.com/biophysj/pdfExtended/S0006-3495(15)00411-7]
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British Journal of Dermatology, February 2012, pages 279-287 [https://academic.oup.com/bjd/article-abstract/166/2/279/6613610]
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Cosmetics and Toiletries, April 2008 [NO_URL_FOUND]
From the Clinic
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