Borage Seed Oil PEG-8 Esters
INCI: BORAGE SEED OIL PEG-8 ESTERS
Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 2 Jun 2026
Also known as: Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters
A modified borage oil that blends emollient and emulsifying properties for stable formulations
Best For Skin Types
All, Dry, Sensitive, Combination
Addresses
Usage Frequency
Daily
What Is Borage Seed Oil PEG-8 Esters?
Borage seed oil PEG-8 esters is a processed form of borage seed oil, chemically modified through esterification with polyethylene glycol (PEG-8). This modification makes the oil water-soluble and allows it to function as both an emollient and an emulsifier in skincare formulations. Borage seed oil is rich in linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), fatty acids that support skin barrier function.
Unlike raw borage oil, the PEG-8 ester form integrates more easily into lightweight creams and serums without leaving a heavy residue. It serves a dual role: conditioning the skin while helping to stabilise the product itself.
How It Works
The PEG-8 modification makes borage oil miscible with both water and oil-based ingredients, allowing it to penetrate formulation structures evenly. Once applied to skin, it deposits a thin conditioning layer that helps reduce transepidermal water loss.
The linoleic acid and GLA present are believed to reinforce the skin's lipid matrix, though the extent to which these fatty acids remain bioavailable after PEG modification is not fully characterised.
Clinical Evidence & References
Borage seed oil itself has been studied for its GLA content and potential anti-inflammatory effects, with some evidence suggesting benefit in inflammatory skin conditions. However, research specifically on the PEG-8 ester form is limited.
Most evidence supporting use comes from the ingredient's functional role in formulation and the known benefits of borage oil's fatty acid profile. Broader claims about skin repair or healing would benefit from dedicated clinical trials on this particular derivative.
How to Use
This ingredient is typically found in creams, serums, and emulsions rather than as a standalone product. Use as part of your regular skincare routine, morning or evening, depending on the product format. It works well in layered routines and pairs with most other actives, though those with known sensitivities to plant oils should patch-test first.
Safety & Precautions
Frequently Asked Questions
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Behenic Acid
A saturated fatty acid primarily used as a thickener and opacifying agent | Sometimes used as a replacement for the lighter-weight ingredient stearic acid
Behenyl Pg-Trimonium Chloride
A conditioning agent that helps stabilise formulations and improve texture
Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate
A multifunctional conditioning agent that supports skin hydration and texture
Borage Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-4 Esters
A plant-derived emulsifier that stabilises oil and water in skincare formulas
Borage Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters
A plant-derived emollient and emulsifier derived from borage seeds
Brassica Alcohol
A plant-derived alcohol that stabilises formulations whilst providing lightweight moisture
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