Emulsifier

Borage Seed Oil PEG-8 Esters

INCI: BORAGE SEED OIL PEG-8 ESTERS

Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 2 Jun 2026

Also known as: Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters

A modified borage oil that blends emollient and emulsifying properties for stable formulations

Best For Skin Types

All, Dry, Sensitive, Combination

Addresses

Dryness, Sensitivity, Barrier repair

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Borage Seed Oil PEG-8 Esters?

Borage seed oil PEG-8 esters is a processed form of borage seed oil, chemically modified through esterification with polyethylene glycol (PEG-8). This modification makes the oil water-soluble and allows it to function as both an emollient and an emulsifier in skincare formulations. Borage seed oil is rich in linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), fatty acids that support skin barrier function.

Unlike raw borage oil, the PEG-8 ester form integrates more easily into lightweight creams and serums without leaving a heavy residue. It serves a dual role: conditioning the skin while helping to stabilise the product itself.

How It Works

The PEG-8 modification makes borage oil miscible with both water and oil-based ingredients, allowing it to penetrate formulation structures evenly. Once applied to skin, it deposits a thin conditioning layer that helps reduce transepidermal water loss.

The linoleic acid and GLA present are believed to reinforce the skin's lipid matrix, though the extent to which these fatty acids remain bioavailable after PEG modification is not fully characterised.

Clinical Evidence & References

Borage seed oil itself has been studied for its GLA content and potential anti-inflammatory effects, with some evidence suggesting benefit in inflammatory skin conditions. However, research specifically on the PEG-8 ester form is limited.

Most evidence supporting use comes from the ingredient's functional role in formulation and the known benefits of borage oil's fatty acid profile. Broader claims about skin repair or healing would benefit from dedicated clinical trials on this particular derivative.

How to Use

This ingredient is typically found in creams, serums, and emulsions rather than as a standalone product. Use as part of your regular skincare routine, morning or evening, depending on the product format. It works well in layered routines and pairs with most other actives, though those with known sensitivities to plant oils should patch-test first.

Safety & Precautions

Generally well-tolerated. Those allergic to borage plant itself or with a history of sensitivity to plant-derived emulsifiers should exercise caution. Patch-test before widespread use if you have sensitive skin.

Frequently Asked Questions

From the Clinic

Not sure what your skin actually needs?

Two minutes, a few questions, and we’ll point you at what matters — no guesswork.

Take the skin quiz

Learn More About Skincare Ingredients

Explore our comprehensive ingredient glossary to understand what's in your products.

Browse All Ingredients

Authorised Stockist

Official UK retailer

Tracked Delivery

Free UK shipping over £50

5 Star Rating

Trusted by thousands

Expert Advice

Free consultations