Humectant

Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract

INCI: CETRARIA ISLANDICA THALLUS EXTRACT

Reviewed by Emma · Last updated 2 Jun 2026

A lichen-derived humectant that draws moisture into the skin

Best For Skin Types

All, Dry, Combination, Sensitive

Addresses

Dryness, Hydration, Sensitivity

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract?

Cetraria islandica thallus extract is derived from Icelandic moss, a lichen species that has been used in traditional Scandinavian skincare for centuries. Unlike true mosses, lichens are a symbiotic relationship between fungi and algae, which gives them unique chemical properties. The extract contains polysaccharides and other hydrophilic compounds that make it effective as a humectant.

In skincare formulations, this ingredient functions primarily as a hydrating agent and skin conditioner, working to draw moisture from the environment into the stratum corneum and improve skin's overall hydration status.

How It Works

Cetraria islandica extract contains polysaccharides that act as humectants, meaning they have a chemical affinity for water. These molecules sit in the outer layers of the skin and attract water molecules from both the deeper skin layers and the surrounding air, effectively plumping and hydrating the stratum corneum.

The extract may also form a light conditioning film on the skin surface, which can help reduce transepidermal water loss and improve the feel and appearance of the skin. This dual action—both drawing moisture in and helping to retain it—makes it a useful addition to hydrating formulations.

Clinical Evidence & References

Clinical evidence for Cetraria islandica extract is limited in published dermatological research. Most supporting data comes from traditional use in Scandinavian skincare rather than rigorous clinical trials. The ingredient has a long history of use in folk remedies, particularly in Iceland and Northern Europe, where it was traditionally used for skin health.

In vitro studies suggest the extract has mild antioxidant and soothing properties, but human clinical studies demonstrating efficacy in contemporary skincare formulations are lacking. Its humectant function is consistent with known properties of polysaccharides, though specific efficacy data for this particular extract would strengthen confidence in its use.

How to Use

Cetraria islandica extract works best when applied to damp skin, as the humectant effect is enhanced by the presence of water. It is typically found in serums, hydrating toners, and moisturisers as part of a broader formulation. Layer it under an occlusive moisturiser if you have very dry skin to maximise hydration retention. There is no evidence of a need to limit frequency; it can be used daily as part of your regular skincare routine.

Safety & Precautions

Cetraria islandica extract is generally well-tolerated and has a long history of traditional use. Sensitivity is rare but possible, particularly in those with lichen or moss allergies; patch test if you have known sensitivities to botanical extracts.

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