Skin Conditioning

Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

INCI: CHOLESTERYL/OCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE

Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A ceramide-like ingredient that helps skin retain moisture and reduce irritation

Best For Skin Types

All, Dry, Sensitive

Addresses

Dryness, Sensitivity, Barrier repair, Irritation

Effective Concentrations

Up to 10%

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate?

Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a synthetic ingredient derived from cholesterol and amino acids. It's designed to mimic the structure of natural ceramides—lipid molecules that form a crucial part of the skin's barrier. This ingredient belongs to a class called lipo-amino acids, which combine fatty acid and amino acid chemistry to create compounds that behave similarly to the skin's own moisturising components.

In formulations, it functions as a skin conditioning agent. Its lamellae-forming properties (ability to create layered structures) allow it to integrate into the skin's uppermost layers, supporting the barrier's water-retention capacity.

How It Works

This ingredient works by integrating into the lipid matrix of the skin's outermost layer (stratum corneum). Because its molecular structure resembles ceramides, it can slot into the organised, layered arrangement of fats that cement skin cells together. This integration helps seal in moisture and strengthens the barrier against external irritants.

The lamellae-forming structure is key: it creates microscopic organised layers that function like a moisture-holding scaffold, reducing the amount of water that evaporates from the skin's surface.

Clinical Evidence & References

Clinical research in patients with atopic dermatitis showed that a nano-emulsion formulation containing this ingredient at 10% concentration significantly improved key symptoms including dryness, scaling, itchiness and irritation sensitivity over 3 to 6 weeks of daily use. These symptom improvements were accompanied by measurable increases in skin hydration (water content).

The evidence is most robust for atopic, compromised skin. Research on its performance in other skin types and concerns is more limited, so broader claims about efficacy remain uncertain at present.

How to Use

This ingredient is typically found in moisturisers, serums and barrier-repair formulations. It works well as part of a regular skincare routine and integrates effectively with other hydrating or barrier-supporting ingredients. Apply to clean skin, morning and evening, as directed by your product's instructions. There is no evidence of a need to cycle or rotate its use.

Safety & Precautions

This ingredient is generally well-tolerated and is considered safe for topical skincare use. Those with very severe atopic dermatitis or compromised skin should patch-test first, though it is specifically designed for sensitive and reactive skin types.

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