Diisostearyl Malate
INCI: Malic Acid
Reviewed by Emma · Last updated 18 Aug 2026
Also known as: Malic Acid, Isostearyl Alcohol
Emollient made from a fatty alcohol + malic acid
EWG Safety Score
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What Is Diisostearyl Malate?
Diisostearyl malate is the diester of lipid-based isostearyl alcohol and the alpha hydroxy acid malic acid. A diester is any compound containing two ester groups. Esters play many roles in cosmetics, from texture enhancing and viscosity control to hydration, softening and stabilizing. Diisostearyl malate's main roles in cosmetics are being an emollient and solvent. It can significantly enhance the texture, slip and moisturization of various cosmetics, including moisturizers, sunscreens, lip balms and lipsticks.
Specific to color cosmetics, diisostearyl malate is used to help dispense pigments in an emollient base or bind powders in dry-finish makeup. It has castor oil-like properties but overall better oxidative stability, meaning it's less likely to suffer from rancidity over time.
Use levels of this oil-soluble emollient typically range from 2–10%, although some suppliers recommend use levels up to 60%. It's considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing and has been deemed safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board.
Clinical Evidence & References
Published Research
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UL Prospector, Webpage, Accessed August 2024 [URL not provided on page] UL Prospector, 2024
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International Journal of Toxicology, July/August 2015, pages 5S–17S [URL not provided on page] International Journal of Toxicology, 2015
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These appear on ingredients lists under different names but are the same substance. Diisostearyl Malate is the common form.
Related Ingredients
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Dilauryl Citrate
A lightweight ester that conditions skin whilst maintaining a smooth application
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