Tonic

Malic Acid

INCI: MALIC ACID

Reviewed by Rosie · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A gentle alpha-hydroxy acid derived from apples that exfoliates and buffers skincare formulations

Best For Skin Types

Oily, Combination, Acne-prone

Addresses

Dullness, Texture, Hyperpigmentation, Oil control

Effective Concentrations

2-3%

Usage Frequency

Once to twice daily

What Is Malic Acid?

Malic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in apples and other fruits. In skincare formulations, it functions primarily as a chemical exfoliant, working to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface layer. It also serves a buffering role in products, helping to stabilise pH and improve formulation stability.

Unlike some stronger AHAs, malic acid is considered a milder option, making it a common choice in products designed for regular use or for those new to exfoliating acids.

How It Works

Malic acid works by breaking down desmosomes—the structures that bind dead skin cells together. This allows these cells to separate and shed naturally from the skin's surface. Because it penetrates more slowly than glycolic acid, it is generally considered gentler and may cause less irritation for some users.

The acid also lowers skin pH, which can enhance the exfoliating action and support the skin barrier's natural acidic environment.

Clinical Evidence & References

Research indicates that AHAs, including malic acid, have exfoliating effects and may help improve the appearance of keratoses and acne. However, the evidence base specifically for malic acid is more limited compared to better-studied AHAs like glycolic acid.

Studies suggest that AHA products can cause adverse reactions including swelling, burning, and itching in some users. Whether AHAs increase or decrease photodamage remains an area of ongoing research, so sun protection remains important during and after use.

How to Use

Malic acid products are typically used once or twice daily, depending on formulation strength and individual tolerance. Start with lower concentrations or less frequent use if your skin is new to exfoliating acids, and allow a week or two for your skin to adjust before increasing frequency. Always follow with a moisturiser and broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day.

Safety & Precautions

Generally well-tolerated at typical concentrations (2-3%), though some users may experience mild irritation, burning, or sensitivity. Those with compromised skin barriers, active rosacea, or very sensitive skin should introduce malic acid cautiously or consult a dermatologist before use.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Part of a family

Malic Acid is a variant of Diisostearyl Malate, the form you will most often see on an ingredients list.

Emollient made from a fatty alcohol + malic acid

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