Hippophae Rhamnoides Acid
INCI: HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES ACID
Reviewed by Rosie · Last updated 2 Jun 2026
A plant-derived acid that conditions skin and helps stabilise formulations
Best For Skin Types
Dry, Sensitive, All
Addresses
Usage Frequency
Daily
What Is Hippophae Rhamnoides Acid?
Hippophae rhamnoides acid is derived from sea buckthorn, a hardy plant native to coastal and mountainous regions across Europe and Asia. The ingredient is extracted from the seed and pulp of the fruit, which contains a notable concentration of polyunsaturated fatty acids and bioactive compounds.
In skincare formulations, it functions primarily as an emollient and skin conditioning agent, helping to soften and smooth the skin surface. It also plays a role in stabilising emulsions, making it useful in creams and lotions where oil and water phases need to remain blended.
How It Works
The ingredient works through multiple mechanisms. Its high polyunsaturated fatty acid content penetrates the outer layers of skin, reinforcing the lipid barrier and reducing moisture loss. Research suggests these fatty acids may also influence the expression of aquaporins (water channel proteins) and hyaluronan synthesis pathways in skin cells, which support the skin's natural hydration system.
As a formulation ingredient, hippophae rhamnoides acid acts as a surfactant and emulsion stabiliser, helping bind oil and water phases together and preventing separation of creams and lotions.
Clinical Evidence & References
Research into sea buckthorn seed oil indicates that its polyunsaturated fatty acid content can reduce skin dryness through mechanisms involving aquaporin-3 and hyaluronan synthase-2 expression in skin cells. In a placebo-controlled study of patients with atopic dermatitis, dietary supplementation with sea buckthorn seed oil resulted in modest changes to skin fatty acid composition, particularly increasing docosapentaenoic acid levels.
The evidence base for this ingredient when applied topically in cosmetic formulations remains limited, and most research has focused on dietary supplementation or concentrated seed oils rather than diluted cosmetic concentrations. More research would help clarify its efficacy at typical usage levels in skincare products.
Published Research
How to Use
This ingredient is typically incorporated into creams, lotions and emulsified serums where its stabilising and conditioning properties are utilised. It is best used as part of a complete hydrating routine rather than as an isolated active treatment. There is no need for special application technique — use morning and evening as part of your regular skincare.
Safety & Precautions
Frequently Asked Questions
From the Clinic
Not sure what your skin actually needs?
Two minutes, a few questions, and we’ll point you at what matters — no guesswork.
Take the skin quizRelated Ingredients
Glycol Stearate
Mixture of glycerin and stearic acid | Functions as an emollient, surfactant, and emulsifier
Glycol Stearate Se
A gentle emulsifier that helps bind water and oil in skincare formulations
Grape Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters
A plant-derived cleansing agent that removes oil-based impurities whilst conditioning the skin
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Hydrogenated form of castor oil | Hard, waxy substance
Hydrogenated Coconut Acid
A saturated fatty acid derived from coconut oil, functioning as emollient and emulsifier
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer
A polymer that stabilises emulsions and supports skin's protective barrier
Learn More About Skincare Ingredients
Explore our comprehensive ingredient glossary to understand what's in your products.
Browse All IngredientsShop Our Products
Find professional skincare solutions at Skintique.