Emulsifier

Hippophae Rhamnoides Acid

INCI: HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES ACID

Reviewed by Rosie · Last updated 2 Jun 2026

A plant-derived acid that conditions skin and helps stabilise formulations

Best For Skin Types

Dry, Sensitive, All

Addresses

Dryness, Hydration, Barrier repair, Sensitivity

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Hippophae Rhamnoides Acid?

Hippophae rhamnoides acid is derived from sea buckthorn, a hardy plant native to coastal and mountainous regions across Europe and Asia. The ingredient is extracted from the seed and pulp of the fruit, which contains a notable concentration of polyunsaturated fatty acids and bioactive compounds.

In skincare formulations, it functions primarily as an emollient and skin conditioning agent, helping to soften and smooth the skin surface. It also plays a role in stabilising emulsions, making it useful in creams and lotions where oil and water phases need to remain blended.

How It Works

The ingredient works through multiple mechanisms. Its high polyunsaturated fatty acid content penetrates the outer layers of skin, reinforcing the lipid barrier and reducing moisture loss. Research suggests these fatty acids may also influence the expression of aquaporins (water channel proteins) and hyaluronan synthesis pathways in skin cells, which support the skin's natural hydration system.

As a formulation ingredient, hippophae rhamnoides acid acts as a surfactant and emulsion stabiliser, helping bind oil and water phases together and preventing separation of creams and lotions.

Clinical Evidence & References

Research into sea buckthorn seed oil indicates that its polyunsaturated fatty acid content can reduce skin dryness through mechanisms involving aquaporin-3 and hyaluronan synthase-2 expression in skin cells. In a placebo-controlled study of patients with atopic dermatitis, dietary supplementation with sea buckthorn seed oil resulted in modest changes to skin fatty acid composition, particularly increasing docosapentaenoic acid levels.

The evidence base for this ingredient when applied topically in cosmetic formulations remains limited, and most research has focused on dietary supplementation or concentrated seed oils rather than diluted cosmetic concentrations. More research would help clarify its efficacy at typical usage levels in skincare products.

How to Use

This ingredient is typically incorporated into creams, lotions and emulsified serums where its stabilising and conditioning properties are utilised. It is best used as part of a complete hydrating routine rather than as an isolated active treatment. There is no need for special application technique — use morning and evening as part of your regular skincare.

Safety & Precautions

Hippophae rhamnoides acid is generally well-tolerated in cosmetic formulations. Those with known sensitivity to sea buckthorn or related plants should perform a patch test before use. No significant adverse effects have been documented at typical cosmetic concentrations.

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