Film-Forming Agent

Hydrolyzed Chitosan

INCI: HYDROLYZED CHITOSAN

Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 2 Jun 2026

A polysaccharide derivative that conditions skin and hair while supporting hydration

Best For Skin Types

All, Dry, Sensitive

Addresses

Dryness, Hydration, Barrier repair

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Hydrolyzed Chitosan?

Hydrolyzed chitosan is a carbohydrate polymer derived from chitin, a naturally occurring substance found in crustacean shells and fungi. Through hydrolysis—a chemical process that breaks down the polymer chains—it becomes a smaller, more soluble molecule that can penetrate and interact with skin more effectively.

In skincare, hydrolyzed chitosan functions primarily as a film-former and humectant. It creates a lightweight, breathable layer on the skin's surface that helps retain moisture whilst also conditioning the stratum corneum (the skin's outermost layer). This dual action makes it useful in products designed to improve hydration and skin feel without leaving a heavy residue.

How It Works

Hydrolyzed chitosan works through two primary mechanisms. First, as a humectant, its molecular structure allows it to absorb and bind water molecules from the environment and deeper skin layers, drawing them to the surface where they're needed most. Second, it forms a thin, flexible film across the skin that slows transepidermal water loss (TEWL)—the natural evaporation of moisture from the skin.

This combination helps to temporarily plump the skin and improve its hydration status. The ingredient's polysaccharide nature also allows it to interact gently with the skin's natural moisturising factors, supporting the skin's own hydration mechanisms rather than disrupting them.

Clinical Evidence & References

Research suggests hydrolyzed chitosan has potential in biomaterial applications for skin health, particularly in wound healing and moisture retention studies. Its ability to absorb and hold water has been demonstrated in controlled laboratory settings, and it appears to work synergistically with other conditioning agents like collagen-derived proteins.

However, most existing research focuses on its use in medical wound dressings and specialised formulations rather than cosmetic skincare products. Evidence specifically documenting anti-ageing or transformative effects in consumer skincare is limited, so expectations should remain grounded in its primary function: supporting hydration and improving skin feel.

How to Use

Hydrolyzed chitosan is typically included in serums, moisturisers, and conditioning treatments. It works well in layered routines and can be applied morning or evening as part of your regular skincare. As a conditioning agent, it doesn't require specific timing or spacing from other ingredients, though it pairs well with other humectants and hydrating actives in your regime.

Safety & Precautions

Hydrolyzed chitosan is generally well-tolerated and considered safe for topical use in cosmetics. Those with shellfish allergies should check product sourcing, as some chitosan is derived from crustaceans, though fungal-derived alternatives exist.

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