Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is an ester of retinoic acid and a relatively newer, more stable member of the ever-growing retinoid family, a group of powerhouse vitamin A derivatives that provide skin with potent benefits.

Although hydroxypinacolone retinoate might seem like a foreign ingredient name, you’ve probably encountered this ingredient’s trade name, Granactive Retinoid Pro+. This type blends 10% HPR with 90% dimethyl isosorbide, a solvent.

HPR is a multi-tasking ingredient that communicates with skin by binding to its retinoic acid receptors within skin’s surface layers. Although it connects directly with these receptors, it’s proven to be more gentle than retinoic acid (tretinoin) when applied topically, meaning more reactive and sensitive skin types might want to explore HPR as an alternative to pure retinol.

Beyond its comparably gentle nature, research has proven that this retinoic acid ester provides skin both anti-ageing and blemish-reducing benefits. Studies show that HPR assisted in reducing the occurrence of mild breakouts as well as the redness associated with them with little disturbance to the skin barrier when combined with retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres.

Those seeking to tackle fine lines and wrinkles as well an uneven tone can also seek out HPR as research has additionally proven this multi-tasking skin care ingredient reduced the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as improved uneven tone.

HPR can positively impact skin at percentages as low as .02%. However, its effectiveness drastically decreases when improperly packaged, such as when kept in jars exposed to light and air. Much like all other vitamin A derivatives and antioxidants, HPR must be kept in air-tight, opaque packaging to remain potent.

Every retinoid ultimately works through the same route: it has to reach the retinoic acid receptors sitting inside skin cells, which act as switches governing how those cells behave. Retinol cannot do this directly. Enzymes in the skin must convert it first to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid, and each step costs potency — while the free retinoic acid produced along the way is largely responsible for the stinging and flaking retinol is known for.

HPR takes a shortcut. Because it is already an ester of retinoic acid, suppliers describe it as engaging retinoid receptors without needing that conversion cascade. It is worth being straight about this: independent published confirmation in human skin is limited. Published work on HPR-containing formulas reports low rates of visible irritation, though these studies test HPR alongside other ingredients rather than against retinol at a matched dose.

Once that receptor signalling is under way the surface of the skin gradually looks smoother and the tone more even, and congested-looking areas appear clearer. Over time this is what users describe as skin that looks firmer and more refined. The dimethyl isosorbide HPR is dissolved in doubles as a penetration aid, helping carry this oil-soluble molecule past the skin's surface.

HPR is a leave-on, evening ingredient. Light is its main enemy, so treat both the product and the routine accordingly.

• Use it at night, on clean, dry skin, before your moisturiser.
• Build up slowly. Two or three nights a week for the first fortnight, then nightly if your skin stays comfortable.
• Wear SPF every morning. All retinoids can leave skin more sensitive to sunlight.
• Buffer if you need to — applying moisturiser before as well as after softens the introduction without cancelling it out.
• Don't stack actives at first. Keep strong exfoliating acids, benzoyl peroxide and other retinoids to separate nights until you know how you react.
• Pair it sensibly. Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and squalane all sit well alongside it.
• Unlike AHAs it does not need a low pH, so it is flexible about where it goes in a routine.
• Check the packaging. Opaque, airtight tubes or pumps only — never decant into a jar, and keep it out of direct sunlight.
• Give it twelve weeks. Published studies ran for eight to twelve weeks before assessing results.