Skin Conditioning

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

INCI: MELISSA OFFICINALIS LEAF EXTRACT

Reviewed by Emma · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A polyphenol-rich plant extract that may support skin barrier function and resilience

Best For Skin Types

All, Sensitive, Combination

Addresses

Barrier repair, Fine lines, Redness

Effective Concentrations

0.5-2%

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract?

Melissa officinalis leaf extract, commonly known as lemon balm extract, is derived from the leaves of a herb in the mint family. It contains rosmarinic acid and other polyphenols—plant compounds with antioxidant properties—which are obtained through water extraction.

In skincare formulations, this ingredient functions as a skin conditioner. Research suggests it may work through multiple pathways, including supporting the skin's natural acidification process and potentially reducing protein glycation, a process linked to skin ageing.

How It Works

The active compound rosmarinic acid appears to activate sodium proton exchanger 1 (NHE1), a protein in the skin that helps maintain the stratum corneum's acidic pH. This acidification is crucial for proper barrier function, as elevated pH is linked to inflammation and compromised skin integrity.

Additionally, rosmarinic acid may inhibit glycation—the unwanted binding of sugars to proteins—which accumulates during ageing and contributes to tissue stiffness and loss of elasticity. By reducing this process, the extract may help support skin firmness and resilience over time.

Clinical Evidence & References

In vitro studies have shown that lemon balm extract exhibits anti-glycation activity comparable to or exceeding that of established anti-glycation agents. One clinical trial in healthy adults suggested improvements in skin elasticity and reduced markers of glycation, though the sample size and scope of this research warrant further validation.

Research on rosmarinic acid's ability to activate NHE1 and lower skin surface pH is promising, with cell and tissue models showing increased NHE1 expression. However, human clinical data on topical application is limited, and more research is needed to establish optimal concentrations and long-term efficacy in diverse skin conditions.

How to Use

Melissa officinalis leaf extract is typically found in serums, essences, and moisturisers at low concentrations. It integrates well into most skincare routines and can be layered with other actives. If you have sensitive skin or are prone to reactions, introduce it gradually and observe how your skin responds over 2–4 weeks before drawing conclusions about efficacy.

Safety & Precautions

Generally well-tolerated in cosmetic formulations. As with any plant-derived ingredient, individuals with known sensitivity to plants in the Lamiaceae family (mint family) should exercise caution.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Other forms of Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

These appear on ingredients lists under different names but are the same substance. Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract is the common form.

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