Melissa Officinalis Leaf Water
INCI: MELISSA OFFICINALIS LEAF WATER
Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 2 Jun 2026
A plant water with potential skin-conditioning and barrier-supporting properties
Best For Skin Types
All, Sensitive, Combination
Addresses
Usage Frequency
Daily
What Is Melissa Officinalis Leaf Water?
Melissa officinalis leaf water is derived from lemon balm, a herb in the mint family (Lamiaceae). The ingredient is produced by extracting the water-soluble compounds from melissa leaves, which contain rosmarinic acid and other polyphenolic compounds. In skincare formulations, it functions primarily as a skin conditioning agent.
Rosmarinic acid, the primary active constituent, has been studied for its effects on skin pH regulation and barrier function. This polyphenol is thought to work at the cellular level, potentially influencing how the skin maintains its natural acidity and protective lipid barrier.
How It Works
Melissa officinalis leaf water contains rosmarinic acid, which appears to activate sodium proton exchanger 1 (NHE1), a protein involved in maintaining the skin's natural acidic pH. A lower pH in the stratum corneum is associated with improved barrier function and reduced inflammation. By supporting this pH balance, the ingredient may help strengthen the skin's protective mechanisms.
Additionally, rosmarinic acid has been shown to suppress glycation, a process where sugar molecules bond with proteins without enzymatic control. This non-enzymatic glycosylation can lead to tissue stiffness and loss of elasticity. By inhibiting this process, the ingredient may contribute to maintaining skin suppleness and resilience.
Clinical Evidence & References
Research indicates that melissa leaf extract containing rosmarinic acid can increase NHE1 expression in skin cells and improve barrier-related markers in laboratory settings. Studies have also demonstrated that rosmarinic acid exhibits anti-glycation activity comparable to or exceeding some reference compounds, suggesting potential benefits for skin elasticity and aging-related changes.
However, most evidence comes from in vitro studies and limited clinical trials. While findings are encouraging, further research in larger human populations would strengthen our understanding of melissa officinalis leaf water's efficacy in skincare formulations at typical concentrations.
How to Use
Melissa officinalis leaf water is typically found in toners, essences, hydrating serums, and lightweight moisturisers. It can be incorporated into daily routines without restriction, making it suitable for both morning and evening use. For best results, apply to clean skin before heavier serums or moisturisers to allow the water-soluble compounds to penetrate effectively.
Safety & Precautions
Frequently Asked Questions
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