Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate is a synthetic lipo-amino acid—a hybrid molecule combining plant-derived phytosterols with amino acid chemistry. It's designed to mimic the structure of ceramides, the natural lipids found in healthy skin.This ingredient functions as a skin conditioner, working to reinforce the skin's lipid barrier and improve water retention. It's used in relatively low concentrations across skincare formulations, appearing in roughly 0.7% of products on the market.

The ingredient's structure allows it to form organised lipid layers within the skin, similar to how natural ceramides arrange themselves. This lamellae-forming property helps trap water within the outer skin layer, improving hydration from within the barrier rather than just surface moisture.Because it mimics ceramide behaviour, it may also help buffer irritation caused by active skincare ingredients—particularly relevant when using potentially irritating treatments—by supporting barrier stability and reducing transepidermal water loss.

This ingredient is typically formulated by manufacturers rather than used as a standalone product, so you'll encounter it within moisturisers, serums, and barrier-support creams. It pairs well with other hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients. Use as directed on your chosen product, usually twice daily for optimal hydration benefits.

Generally well-tolerated across skin types. No significant adverse effects have been reported in available research, though as with any ingredient, patch testing is sensible if you have very reactive skin.