Willow Bark

Willow bark is a plant extract with proven skin-soothing benefits. It is also sometimes listed as Salix alba (white willow) or Salix nigra (black willow) extract on an ingredient list.

Some skin care brands tout willow bark as a natural alternative to the salicylic acid (BHA) exfoliants. This association comes from the fact that willow bark contains salicin, a substance that when taken orally is converted by the digestive process to salicylic acid.

It’s important to clarify the process of converting willow bark’s salicin into salicylic acid requires the presence of enzymes and other biological complexities. Further, salicin, much like salicylic acid, is stable only under acidic conditions. The likelihood that willow bark in the tiny amount used in cosmetics can mimic the effect of salicylic acid is questionable at best.

That said, there are still benefits to willow bark in skin care. Studies indicate the salicin content can offer general anti-ageing properties for skin and its other beneficial compounds (including polyphenols and flavonoids) contribute to its antioxidant effects.

In skin care, willow bark is typically used in amounts of 0.5–1%, with a maximum recommended concentration of 10%. Amounts below 0.5% may be used in concert with other soothing ingredients, depending on formulary goals.

*If you are allergic to aspirin, follow your health care provider’s advice about using skin care products with willow bark.

Written by: Desiree Stordahl