Emulsifier

C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate

INCI: C18-38 ALKYL HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE

Reviewed by Rosie · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A synthetic emollient that stabilises formulations and softens skin texture

Best For Skin Types

All, Combination, Mature

Addresses

Dryness, Barrier repair

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate?

C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate is a synthetic ester derived from stearic acid and fatty alcohols. It functions primarily as an emollient and emulsion stabiliser in skincare formulations, helping oil and water-based ingredients blend smoothly and remain stable over time.

This ingredient is used sparingly in skincare products (found in roughly 0.1% of formulations) and serves a technical rather than a standalone therapeutic role. Its presence typically indicates a carefully formulated product where texture, spreadability and long-term stability have been considered.

How It Works

As an ester, this ingredient works by depositing a thin, occlusive layer on the skin's surface. This helps reduce transepidermal water loss and creates a smoother appearance by filling micro-gaps in the skin's texture.

In formulations, it acts as an emulsion stabiliser by positioning itself at the oil–water interface, allowing the product to maintain a consistent texture and preventing ingredients from separating over time.

Clinical Evidence & References

Published clinical data specifically on C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate in isolation is limited. However, as a member of the stearate ester family, it shares similar emollient and conditioning properties well-established in skincare chemistry.

Its safety and efficacy in cosmetic use are supported by regulatory approval and decades of use in personal care formulations, though most benefits are texture-related rather than therapeutic. Any skin-conditioning effects are likely modest and occur alongside other active ingredients in a formula.

How to Use

This ingredient is a formulation component rather than a standalone active, so its benefits are best experienced as part of a complete product. Use according to the product instructions. Its effects are cumulative with regular use, particularly for improving skin texture over several weeks. It works well in moisturisers, serums and lightweight creams where a refined texture is desired.

Safety & Precautions

Generally well-tolerated and rarely associated with irritation or sensitisation. It is not known to cause photosensitivity or interact significantly with other skincare ingredients.

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