Emulsifier

C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate

INCI: C20-22 ALKYL PHOSPHATE

Reviewed by Emma · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A long-chain emulsifier that stabilises oil and water mixtures in formulations

Best For Skin Types

All

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate?

C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate is a long-chain surfactant derived from fatty alcohols and phosphoric acid. It functions as an emulsifier, meaning it helps blend ingredients that would otherwise separate, such as oils and water-based components. This allows formulators to create stable, uniform textures in creams, lotions and serums.

As a surfactant, it also has mild cleansing properties and can help improve the spreadability and absorption of skincare products. It is used sparingly in formulations—appearing in roughly 0.2% of skincare products—typically at low concentrations where its emulsifying function is needed rather than its cleansing effect.

How It Works

C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate works by positioning itself at the boundary between oil and water molecules. One end of the molecule is attracted to oils, while the other is attracted to water. This allows the two to mix and remain blended, preventing the separation you might see in an unstable formula.

In formulations where cleansing is desired, its surfactant nature means it can also help lift away oils and impurities from the skin surface, though at the low concentrations typically used in skincare, this action is minimal.

Clinical Evidence & References

Published clinical research specifically on C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate in skincare is limited. The ingredient's safety and function as an emulsifier are well-established within the cosmetic chemistry field, and it is approved for use in cosmetics across major regulatory bodies including the EU and UK.

Its effects in formulation are primarily technical rather than therapeutic—it enables other active ingredients to be delivered effectively rather than providing direct skin benefits itself. Any skin-level benefits would depend on the broader formulation and the active ingredients present.

How to Use

C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate is an ingredient used by formulators rather than consumers. It is not typically highlighted on product labels and requires no special application technique. Simply use the product as directed by the manufacturer—the emulsifier's job is already complete during formulation.

Safety & Precautions

C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate is generally well-tolerated and approved for cosmetic use. It is unlikely to cause irritation at the concentrations used in skincare products.

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