Cis-Retinoic Acid
INCI: CIS-RETINOIC ACID
Reviewed by Rosie · Last updated 14 Aug 2026
Also known as: Cis-retinoic Acid
A potent retinoid derivative used clinically for severe acne and inflammatory skin conditions
Best For Skin Types
Oily, Acne-prone, Combination
Addresses
Effective Concentrations
0-8%
Usage Frequency
2-3 times per week, increasing as tolerated
What Is Cis-Retinoic Acid?
Cis-retinoic acid (also known as 13-cis-retinoic acid or isotretinoin) is a synthetic derivative of vitamin A. It is a highly active retinoid that works at the cellular level to influence skin behaviour and reduce sebum production.
This ingredient is best known from its oral pharmaceutical use in treating severe, treatment-resistant acne. In topical skincare formulations, it appears at lower concentrations and is used to address acne-prone and oily skin concerns.
Benefits for Your Skin
How It Works
Cis-retinoic acid works by binding to retinoic acid receptors in skin cells, triggering changes in gene expression. This influences how cells behave — particularly sebocytes (oil-producing cells) and cells lining the hair follicle.
The result is reduced sebum production, improved cell turnover, and anti-inflammatory effects that help control acne-related bacteria and reduce the inflammatory response in acne lesions.
Clinical Evidence & References
Oral isotretinoin has strong clinical evidence supporting its use for severe, recalcitrant acne since its FDA approval in 1982. Research indicates it is also used off-label for mild-to-moderate acne and other inflammatory skin conditions, with varying degrees of success depending on the condition.
Evidence on topical formulations at lower concentrations is less extensive than for oral use. Whilst the mechanism suggests benefit for acne-prone and oily skin, comprehensive clinical data on topical cis-retinoic acid products would be helpful to establish efficacy and optimal use guidelines.
How to Use
As with all retinoids, introduce cis-retinoic acid gradually if your skin is new to this ingredient class. Start with the lowest concentration and lowest frequency (such as 2-3 times per week), increasing gradually as tolerance builds. Use sunscreen daily, as retinoids increase skin sensitivity to UV damage. Avoid use during pregnancy.
If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, please check with us first — [email protected].
Safety & Precautions
Frequently Asked Questions
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