Kaolin Clay

Kaolin, also known as kaolin clay, china clay or white clay, is a naturally occurring mineral clay first mined near Kao-ling hill in China. In cosmetics it is registered under the EU CosIng database with functions including abrasive, absorbent, anticaking, bulking and opacifying, which explains why it turns up in such a wide range of product types.

Of the clays commonly used in skincare, kaolin is considered one of the gentlest, thanks to its fine, soft texture and relatively low absorbency compared with clays such as bentonite. This makes it a popular choice in formulations designed for normal, combination and sensitive skin, where a more intensive clay might feel too drying. You'll find kaolin in cleansers, clay masks, powders and some mineral-based cosmetics.

As an absorbent, kaolin's mineral structure allows it to draw excess surface oil and impurities away from the skin, which is why it's a staple ingredient in clay masks and mattifying formulas. Its fine particle size also gives it a mild abrasive quality, contributing a gentle physical exfoliating action when used in scrubs or cleansing masks, helping to leave skin feeling smoother.

Kaolin's opacifying and bulking functions mean it's also used to adjust the texture, thickness and appearance of a formula, including in some mineral powders and colour cosmetics, separately from any effect on the skin itself.

Key points

• Registered as an absorbent, helping to draw excess surface oil and impurities from skin.
• Provides a mild abrasive action, useful in gentle scrubs and clarifying masks.
• Generally considered gentler than more absorbent clays such as bentonite, suiting normal to sensitive skin.
• Used as a bulking and opacifying agent to adjust a formula's texture and appearance.
• A naturally occurring mineral with a long history of cosmetic use.

Is kaolin clay suitable for sensitive or dry skin?

Kaolin is generally regarded as one of the milder clays because it absorbs less oil than options such as bentonite or rhassoul clay, which makes it a reasonable starting point for drier or more sensitive skin. That said, clay masks can still feel drying for some people, so limit use and follow with a moisturiser.

How is kaolin clay different from other clays like bentonite?

Both are naturally occurring mineral clays, but bentonite tends to absorb more oil and swell more when wet, giving it a stronger drawing effect. Kaolin's gentler absorbency makes it better suited to regular use or drier skin types, while bentonite is often reserved for oilier skin or occasional deep-cleansing treatments.