Pelargonic Acid
INCI: PELARGONIC ACID
Reviewed by Emma · Last updated 14 Aug 2026
Also known as: Pelargonic Acid
A fatty acid that cleanses and conditions skin whilst helping formulations remain stable
Best For Skin Types
All, Oily, Combination
Addresses
Usage Frequency
Daily
What Is Pelargonic Acid?
Pelargonic acid, also known as nonanoic acid, is a naturally occurring saturated fatty acid with nine carbon atoms in its chain. It is found in various plant and animal sources and functions as a versatile ingredient in skincare formulations.
In cosmetics, pelargonic acid serves multiple roles: it acts as a cleansing agent to help remove impurities, an emulsifier to blend water and oil components, and a skin-conditioning agent that can help maintain skin's moisture balance. Its presence in a formulation may also influence how other ingredients behave on the skin.
How It Works
As a fatty acid, pelargonic acid has both water-loving and oil-loving properties, allowing it to sit at the interface between water and oil in a formulation. This dual nature makes it effective at trapping dirt and excess sebum, which can then be rinsed away during cleansing.
Once absorbed into the skin, pelargonic acid is metabolised relatively quickly into non-toxic compounds. Research suggests it may influence how readily other ingredients penetrate the skin, though the significance of this effect in typical formulations remains unclear.
Clinical Evidence & References
Safety assessments have found pelargonic acid and its esters to be non-toxic in animal studies, with no evidence of reproductive, developmental, or carcinogenic effects. The ingredient is readily metabolised by the body.
Regarding skin irritation, patch testing in dermatological settings has shown that pelargonic acid can provoke irritant reactions at high concentrations, though reactions vary between individuals. At the concentrations typically used in cosmetic products, it is generally well-tolerated. Limited research is available on its long-term effects in formulated skincare products at standard use levels.
How to Use
Pelargonic acid is typically found in cleansers and other rinse-off products rather than leave-on treatments, so follow the instructions provided by the specific product. If you have particularly sensitive or compromised skin, patch test first. There is no need for special timing or sequencing when this ingredient is present in a cleanser.
Safety & Precautions
Frequently Asked Questions
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