Emulsifier

Pelargonic Acid

INCI: PELARGONIC ACID

Reviewed by Emma · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

Also known as: Pelargonic Acid

A fatty acid that cleanses and conditions skin whilst helping formulations remain stable

Best For Skin Types

All, Oily, Combination

Addresses

Oil control, Cleansing

Usage Frequency

Daily

What Is Pelargonic Acid?

Pelargonic acid, also known as nonanoic acid, is a naturally occurring saturated fatty acid with nine carbon atoms in its chain. It is found in various plant and animal sources and functions as a versatile ingredient in skincare formulations.

In cosmetics, pelargonic acid serves multiple roles: it acts as a cleansing agent to help remove impurities, an emulsifier to blend water and oil components, and a skin-conditioning agent that can help maintain skin's moisture balance. Its presence in a formulation may also influence how other ingredients behave on the skin.

How It Works

As a fatty acid, pelargonic acid has both water-loving and oil-loving properties, allowing it to sit at the interface between water and oil in a formulation. This dual nature makes it effective at trapping dirt and excess sebum, which can then be rinsed away during cleansing.

Once absorbed into the skin, pelargonic acid is metabolised relatively quickly into non-toxic compounds. Research suggests it may influence how readily other ingredients penetrate the skin, though the significance of this effect in typical formulations remains unclear.

Clinical Evidence & References

Safety assessments have found pelargonic acid and its esters to be non-toxic in animal studies, with no evidence of reproductive, developmental, or carcinogenic effects. The ingredient is readily metabolised by the body.

Regarding skin irritation, patch testing in dermatological settings has shown that pelargonic acid can provoke irritant reactions at high concentrations, though reactions vary between individuals. At the concentrations typically used in cosmetic products, it is generally well-tolerated. Limited research is available on its long-term effects in formulated skincare products at standard use levels.

How to Use

Pelargonic acid is typically found in cleansers and other rinse-off products rather than leave-on treatments, so follow the instructions provided by the specific product. If you have particularly sensitive or compromised skin, patch test first. There is no need for special timing or sequencing when this ingredient is present in a cleanser.

Safety & Precautions

Pelargonic acid is generally well-tolerated at cosmetic concentrations. Individuals with very sensitive or irritated skin may want to patch test products containing it, as high concentrations can cause irritant reactions.

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