Protease

Protease is perhaps better known by its plural form proteases or as proteolytic enzymes. The name protease covers a large number of enzymes that break down proteins and peptides into shorter peptides or amino acids.

These enzymes are made by plants, animals, fungi, and bacteria. In the human body proteases function to inhibit the function of certain proteins, break down inactive proteins into active peptides, and serve as an agent to kickstart certain biological processes.

In the world of dermatology, proteases have been used in cleansers to remove “dirt” proteins (as in the proteins naturally found in soil) from skin. In leave-on formulations, proteases can help remove old, dead skin cells to reduce skin flaking and help moisturisers work better to restore skin’s barrier, particularly if it’s naturally deficient in the proteins that help keep it strong.

In essence, proteases help skin’s surface with the natural process of desquamation – also known as exfoliation. Extensive research has not been conducted yet showing how effective proteases are in direct comparison to “chemical” exfoliates such as AHAs and BHA. Still, these ingredients are helpful in maintaining skin’s normal balance, which is always a good thing. Rather than replacing chemical exfoliants, using products with proteases can help boost their skin-renewing properties.