Exuviance PHAs: The Gentle Revolution in Chemical Exfoliation

Glycolic acid has left plenty of people red, tight and flaking. If that's familiar, there's a gentler route to smoother, brighter-looking skin. Exuviance is the sister brand to NeoStrata — the company that introduced AHAs to skincare in the first place — and its focus is Polyhydroxy Acids, or PHAs. They're often billed as the next generation of chemical exfoliant, and for sensitive skin that's not just marketing.

What makes a PHA different?

PHAs are simply bigger molecules than the AHAs most people know. Two do most of the work in the Exuviance range:

• Gluconolactone — the main one. A larger molecule that works at the skin's surface, brings antioxidant properties with it, and draws in moisture rather than stripping it.
• Lactobionic acid — bigger still, derived from milk sugar, and a genuine moisture-binder. It exfoliates while it hydrates, which isn't something glycolic acid is known for.

Because a larger molecule can't penetrate as deep or as fast, PHAs carry a lower risk of irritation than traditional AHAs, and — unlike AHAs — they don't increase sun sensitivity, which makes them easier to live with year-round.

The Exuviance PHA range

• HydraSoothe Refresh Toner — a gentle, alcohol-free toner built on gluconolactone and hyaluronic acid, used morning and evening straight after cleansing to rebalance and hydrate before the rest of your routine.
• Performance Peel AP25 — a two-step at-home peel combining a 25% blend of AHAs (glycolic and mandelic acid) with PHA gluconolactone, used once or twice a week for salon-level polish with minimal downtime.
• Glycolic Expert Moisturiser — a daily moisturiser built around 10% glycolic acid (an AHA, not a PHA) for those who've built up tolerance and are ready for stronger daily resurfacing, softened with soothing botanicals.
• Triple Microdermabrasion Face Polish — glycolic acid, papaya enzyme and fine polishing crystals combined for physical, chemical and enzymatic exfoliation together, two or three times a week.
• Overnight Transformation Complex — an overnight treatment built on gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, applied before bed.

For daily sun protection, the tinted Daily Corrector SPF 35 pairs broad-spectrum protection with brightening actives, making it a straightforward one-step swap for a separate moisturiser and sunscreen. For an extra firming boost once your skin is used to the range, the AGE REVERSE+ Rebuild-5 Cream is worth layering in.

Who do PHAs suit?

PHAs come into their own for skin that finds everything else too much — sensitive, rosacea-prone or eczema-prone skin, anyone who's reacted badly to glycolic acid, and skin recovering after a procedure. They're also a sensible way in for first-time acid users, and for anyone who wants a gentle daily exfoliation without worrying about extra sun sensitivity. If you're pregnant, check with your doctor before introducing any new active, PHAs included.

How do you build a routine around PHAs?

Starting out: a gentle cleanser each morning followed by Daily Corrector SPF 35, and a gentle cleanser at night followed by Overnight Transformation Complex.

Once settled: add a PHA serum such as the Radiance Serum by day before moisturiser and SPF, and bring in Performance Peel AP25 once or twice a week on top of your usual evening routine.

PHAs and retinol get along well, too. PHAs help prep skin so retinol absorbs more evenly, and because they don't add to sun sensitivity, using a PHA by day and retinol at night is a straightforward split. If you're weighing up which retinol to pair it with, our guide to the best retinol serums in the UK is worth a read.

Frequently asked questions

Are PHAs as effective as glycolic acid?

Broadly, yes, though they work more gradually. With regular use, PHAs get you to a similar place without the irritation that often comes with glycolic acid.

Can I use a PHA every day?

Most people can, and some skin tolerates it twice daily. PHAs are designed to be gentle enough for frequent use.

Do I still need SPF with PHAs?

Yes, always. PHAs don't increase sun sensitivity the way AHAs can, but daily sunscreen is essential in any routine, regardless of which actives you're using.

How long before I see results with PHAs?

Skin often looks smoother within a couple of weeks, with more noticeable change building over roughly eight to twelve weeks of consistent use.

Shop the full range in Exuviance at Skintique.