Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed collagen, also referred to as collagen peptides, is collagen that's been broken down into short chains of amino acids, forming collagen peptides. A major source of collagen is fish skin, which is then reduced to smaller segments. More recently, many different collages pieces have been synthesized in the laboratory. Contrary to popular belief, hydrolyzed collagen does not function as an anti-ageing ingredient, but rather a humectant that assists in hydrating skin. Humectants help promote a smooth, plump and dewy appearance by drawing and binding moisture to the skin. They work particularly well when paired with emollients, which help trap moisture within the skin.

Collagen occurs naturally in the body. There are many different types of collagen found in the skin which participate in different functions. Alongside elastin, it provides structure and firmness to skin, helping skin maintain a youthful, tight appearance. As we age, our body slows production of collagen and elastin. Combined with accumulated environmental damage, mostly from UV light exposure, this results in sagging skin with a compromised, fragmented structure. Hydrolyzed collagen's molecules are far too large to penetrate skin and impact its structure. This is why we use collagen-stimulating ingredients, like retinol and vitamin C, in anti-ageing skin care.

This ingredient's also commonly used in supplements and hair care. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed hydrolyzed collagen and stated that it's safe for use in cosmetics. In skin and hair care, usage levels of hydrolyzed collagen typically range from 0.2–2%.