Emulsifier

Poloxamer 124

INCI: POLOXAMER 124

Reviewed by Rosie · Last updated 14 Aug 2026

A synthetic polymer that stabilises and delivers active ingredients evenly across the skin

Best For Skin Types

All

Addresses

Product stability, Ingredient delivery

Effective Concentrations

0.005–20%

Usage Frequency

As tolerated

What Is Poloxamer 124?

Poloxamer 124 is a synthetic polymer composed of polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene blocks. It belongs to a family of poloxamers widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals as multifunctional ingredients.

In skincare formulations, poloxamer 124 primarily functions as a surfactant and emulsifying agent. Its role is to help blend oil and water-based components together, creating stable emulsions and improving the distribution of active ingredients across the skin's surface.

How It Works

Poloxamer 124 reduces surface tension between incompatible ingredients, allowing them to mix uniformly. This stabilising action prevents formulations from separating over time and helps maintain product texture and performance throughout its shelf life.

Research suggests that poloxamer 124 may also facilitate skin penetration via hair follicles, which could enhance the delivery of active ingredients to deeper skin layers. However, most poloxamers are large molecules that remain largely on the skin surface rather than absorbing systemically.

Clinical Evidence & References

Poloxamer 124 has been evaluated as safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory bodies. It is used across a range of formulations, typically at concentrations between 0.005% and 20%, depending on the product type.

Research indicates that poloxamer 124 can improve skin penetration of certain active ingredients when incorporated into microemulsion formulations, though evidence is most robust for pharmaceutical applications rather than cosmetic skincare. When used topically in cosmetics, poloxamer 124 itself is not absorbed systemically in significant amounts.

How to Use

Poloxamer 124 is a formulation ingredient rather than an active treatment, so it requires no special application technique. Use products containing this ingredient as directed by the manufacturer. It is typically well-tolerated and does not require adjustments to your routine.

Safety & Precautions

Poloxamer 124 is generally well-tolerated in topical cosmetic use. It is not known to cause irritation or sensitisation in most individuals, though as with any ingredient, some people may experience sensitivity.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Part of a family

Poloxamer 124 is a variant of Poloxamer 338, the form you will most often see on an ingredients list.

A synthetic emulsifier that stabilises formulations and enables ingredient delivery

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