Types of Hyperpigmentation: PIH, Melasma, Sun Spots & Freckles
Ready to shop the picks below?
Shop the Discolouration collection →
AlumierMD AlumierMD Ultimate Boost Serum | 30ml
£87.50
AlumierMD AlumierMD Bright & Clear Solution | 180ml
£8.00
AlumierMD AlumierMD AluminEye™ Eye Serum | 15ml
£68.50
AlumierMD AlumierMD Purifying Gel Cleanser | pH-Balanced Cleanser | 177ml / 15ml
£7.00
AlumierMD AlumierMD HydraDew Moisturiser | 50ml
£69.50
If you have noticed dark marks, patches or freckles that make your complexion look less even, you are dealing with some form of hyperpigmentation. It is one of the most common skin concerns in the UK, and one of the most misunderstood, because "hyperpigmentation" is really an umbrella term for several different conditions. They can look similar at a glance but behave very differently, respond to different ingredients and, in some cases, need professional care. This guide explains what hyperpigmentation is, walks through the main types, shows you how to tell them apart, and sets out the shared skincare levers that help fade the look of them over time.
What hyperpigmentation actually is
Your skin gets its colour from melanin, a pigment made by specialised cells called melanocytes. When those cells are triggered — by sunlight, inflammation, hormones or injury — they can produce extra melanin in a localised area. That surplus pigment shows up as a spot, patch or general darkening that sits darker than your surrounding skin tone. That is hyperpigmentation: an area of excess melanin, not a stain on the surface you can scrub away.
Because the pigment often sits at different depths, some marks fade within weeks while others linger for many months. Skincare can help fade the appearance of surface and mid-level pigment and, crucially, help prevent it from getting worse — but it works gradually, and expectations matter. No cream erases pigment overnight, and anything promising to "whiten" or "bleach" your skin is best avoided.
The main types of hyperpigmentation
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
PIH is the flat brown, grey or reddish mark left behind after the skin has been inflamed — a healed spot, a picked blemish, an insect bite, eczema or a minor injury. It is the most common type in people with acne-prone skin, and it is often confused with scarring. The key difference: PIH is a change in colour on otherwise smooth skin, whereas a true scar is a change in texture (a pit or a raised area). PIH tends to fade on its own eventually, but it can take months, and sun exposure and further picking will drag that timeline out. We cover it in detail in our guide to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Melasma
Melasma shows up as larger, symmetrical patches — usually on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip or bridge of the nose. It is strongly linked to hormones (pregnancy and the contraceptive pill are common triggers) as well as UV and heat, which is why it is sometimes called "the mask of pregnancy". Melasma is the most stubborn type: it sits deeper, recurs easily and is genuinely difficult to shift, so it is best managed with a dermatologist alongside rigorous daily sun protection. If this sounds like your skin, read our dedicated explainer on what melasma is.
Sun spots and age spots
Also called solar lentigines or "liver spots", these are the small, well-defined brown patches that appear on areas with years of sun exposure — the face, backs of the hands, chest and shoulders. They are the cumulative result of UV damage, which is why they tend to become more noticeable from your forties onwards. Unlike PIH, they are not tied to a recent injury or breakout; they simply build up over time wherever sunlight has repeatedly reached the skin.
Freckles
Freckles are small, flat spots of concentrated melanin that often run in families and darken with sun exposure, then fade a little in winter. They are harmless, and worth mentioning mainly so you can tell them apart from sun spots — freckles are usually smaller, more scattered and more sun-reactive, and tend to show up early in life rather than accumulating with age.
How to tell the types apart
A few simple questions usually point you in the right direction. Where is it? Marks scattered on the hands, chest and cheeks that grew over years lean towards sun spots or freckles; symmetrical patches on the cheeks and upper lip lean towards melasma; individual marks where you had a spot or graze are almost always PIH. What came first? If a blemish, bite or scratch preceded the mark, it is PIH. Did it appear during pregnancy or after starting the pill? That points to melasma. Is the surface smooth? If the skin is flat and even to the touch, it is pigmentation rather than scarring.
One important caveat: if a pigmented spot is new, changing shape, growing, itching, bleeding or looks unlike your other marks, have it checked by a GP or dermatologist. This guide is about cosmetic evenness, not diagnosing skin lesions, and anything unusual deserves a professional eye. The NHS and the British Association of Dermatologists both offer guidance on when to get a mole or spot assessed.
What triggers each type
The triggers overlap, which is why one person can have more than one type at once. UV light is the common thread — it drives sun spots, darkens freckles, worsens melasma and deepens PIH, which is exactly why sun protection is the foundation of every approach below. Inflammation drives PIH specifically, so calming breakouts and not picking helps at the source, while hormones and heat are the troublemakers behind melasma. Recognising your triggers tells you where to focus: recurring PIH means getting acne under control, whereas melasma needs relentless sun and heat management.
The shared levers that fade the look
Whatever the type, the toolkit for evening things out is largely the same. The differences are in intensity and patience, not in the core ingredients.
SPF first, always. A broad-spectrum SPF 30–50 worn every day is the single most effective step. It will not undo existing marks, but it stops fresh UV from deepening them and protects the progress your other products are making. Without it, every other effort is working against the tide.
Vitamin C. A brightening antioxidant that helps fade the appearance of dark marks and gives skin a more even, radiant look, while adding daytime protection alongside your sunscreen. Learn more in our vitamin C glossary entry.
Niacinamide. A gentle, well-tolerated form of vitamin B3 that helps interrupt the transfer of pigment to the skin's surface and supports a more even tone — a good all-rounder for sensitive skin. See the niacinamide glossary entry.
Retinoids. Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol speed up skin renewal, helping surface pigment clear and refine tone over time. Introduce them slowly and always pair with daytime SPF.
Exfoliating acids. Ingredients like glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid lift dull, pigmented surface cells so brighter skin shows through. Azelaic acid is especially useful where PIH and breakouts overlap.
Patience. Pigment fades on a scale of weeks to months, not days. Consistency beats intensity — a routine you actually keep up with, worn daily, will out-perform an aggressive one you abandon.
If you would like product suggestions built around these ingredients, browse our edit of pigment-focused formulas in the discolouration collection, or read our round-up of the best products for hyperpigmentation in the UK and our broader guide to mastering hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Because post-acne marks are so common, our acne hub and acne-prone skin guide are worth a look if breakouts are behind your pigmentation.
Hyperpigmentation FAQs
Can skincare completely remove hyperpigmentation?
No product can erase or cure pigmentation, and honest brands will not claim to. What good skincare can do is help fade the appearance of dark marks and even the look of your tone over time, while daily SPF prevents new pigment from forming. Think gradual improvement and prevention rather than a permanent fix.
How long does hyperpigmentation take to fade?
It depends on the type and how deep the pigment sits. Surface post-inflammatory marks may soften over a few months of consistent care, while melasma and older sun spots are far more stubborn and can take much longer or keep returning. Daily sun protection is what protects your progress throughout.
What is the difference between hyperpigmentation and scarring?
Hyperpigmentation is a change in colour on skin that is otherwise smooth to the touch. A scar is a change in texture — a pit, dent or raised area. You can have both at once, but they need different approaches, so it helps to run your fingertip over the mark to feel whether the surface is even.
Which type of hyperpigmentation is hardest to treat?
Melasma is generally the most challenging. It sits deeper, is driven by hormones and heat as well as UV, and tends to recur even after it improves. For that reason it is best managed with a dermatologist alongside diligent daily sun protection rather than tackled with over-the-counter products alone.
Do I still need sunscreen indoors or in winter?
Yes. UVA passes through glass and is present year-round, even on grey days, and it is a major driver of pigment worsening. A daily broad-spectrum SPF 30–50 is the foundation of any plan to fade the look of dark marks, so it is worth wearing consistently whatever the season.
When should I see a dermatologist about pigmentation?
See a professional if patches are stubborn, spreading or clearly hormonal, such as suspected melasma, or if home care has made no difference over several months. Always get a spot checked promptly if it is new, changing, growing, itching or bleeding. The NHS and British Association of Dermatologists offer guidance on when to seek assessment.
Written by
Kate
Kate is an aesthetic therapist and skincare specialist who turns clinical ingredient science into simple, practical routines, with a focus on anti-ageing and skin-barrier health.