What Is Melasma? Causes, Triggers and How to Manage the Look

Melasma is one of the most recognisable — and most frustrating — forms of hyperpigmentation. It shows up as larger patches of brown or greyish-brown discolouration, usually spread symmetrically across the face, and it has a stubborn habit of fading and then returning. If you have noticed matching areas of darkness across your cheeks or above your lip, especially after pregnancy or a sunny holiday, melasma is a likely explanation. This guide explains what it is, why it happens, and the realistic role skincare and sun protection play in how it looks.

What melasma actually is

Melasma is a condition where the pigment-producing cells in your skin (melanocytes) become overactive and deposit excess melanin, creating visible patches. Unlike a single dark mark left by a spot, melasma tends to appear as broad, blotchy areas with soft, blurred edges rather than sharp outlines.

Its defining feature is symmetry. Melasma usually mirrors itself on both sides of the face, and it favours a few classic locations:

• The cheeks — often the most noticeable area, spreading across the upper cheekbones.
• The forehead — a band of discolouration across the brow.
• The upper lip — sometimes mistaken for shadowing or a faint moustache.
• The bridge of the nose and the chin — less common, but part of the same pattern.

The patches are flat — you cannot feel them, only see them. Colour ranges from light tan to deep brown, sometimes a diffuse greyish tone. Melasma is very common, affects women far more often than men, and is seen more in medium to deeper skin tones, though anyone can develop it.

What triggers melasma

Melasma is driven by a combination of factors rather than a single cause, which is part of what makes it complex. The three big triggers are ultraviolet light, heat, and hormones.

UV exposure is the most important everyday driver. Sunlight stimulates melanocytes directly, and even short, incidental exposure — the walk to work, sitting near a window, an overcast day — can be enough to keep melasma active. Visible light, including the glow from screens and bright daylight, can also play a part, which is why melasma is so closely tied to sun habits.

Heat is an under-appreciated trigger. Hot environments, saunas, intense exercise and even the warmth of cooking can prompt flare-ups independently of UV, because raised skin temperature can nudge pigment cells into action.

Hormones are the other major thread. Melasma is sometimes called "the mask of pregnancy" (chloasma) because it commonly appears during pregnancy, when hormone levels surge. It is also associated with the combined contraceptive pill and other hormonal therapy — which helps explain why melasma affects women disproportionately and why it can be so persistent. There is often a genetic element too, so a family history raises your odds.

Why melasma is so stubborn and keeps coming back

Melasma has a reputation for being difficult, and that reputation is deserved. Because the underlying triggers — sunlight, heat and hormones — are part of ordinary life, the condition rarely resolves neatly and tends to return whenever those triggers ramp up again.

Depth matters too. Pigment that sits deeper in the skin is much slower to shift and far more likely to recur, and many people have a mix of shallow and deep. Melasma-prone skin can also be sensitive: aggressive treatments, harsh scrubs or too much irritation can inflame it and make pigmentation look worse. That is why a gentle, consistent, long-term approach almost always beats a quick, forceful one.

It helps to set expectations honestly. Melasma is a chronic, relapsing condition. The realistic goal is to soften and even out its appearance and to keep it calm over time — not to expect it to vanish permanently.

How skincare and rigorous SPF help the look

Skincare cannot make melasma disappear, but a well-judged routine can help fade the appearance of the patches and, crucially, stop them worsening. Sun protection is the single most important part of any melasma plan.

Daily SPF, without exception. A high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen worn every day and reapplied is non-negotiable. For melasma specifically, a tinted mineral SPF containing iron oxides is often recommended, because the tint helps shield against visible light as well as UV. Without disciplined sun protection, other products make little headway, because fresh UV keeps re-triggering the pigment.

Supportive brightening ingredients. Several well-tolerated actives can help even the look of the skin over time. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help brighten the look of dullness and uneven tone. Niacinamide supports a more even-looking complexion and helps calm the skin, while azelaic acid and gentle exfoliating acids are also used for pigment concerns. These work slowly, so consistency over months matters more than strength.

Gentleness first. Because irritation can aggravate melasma, introduce actives one at a time, patch test, and avoid abrasive scrubbing. You can explore targeted options in our discolouration collection.

For a wider view of pigment types and how they differ, see our guide to the types of hyperpigmentation.

Why a dermatologist is the right call

Of all the pigmentation concerns, melasma is the one where professional help matters most. Because it is a genuine medical condition with hormonal and depth-related complexity, a dermatologist can confirm the diagnosis (ruling out other causes of pigmentation) and tailor a treatment plan to your skin.

Dermatologists have prescription-strength options and can advise carefully on treatments such as chemical peels or certain in-clinic devices — some of which, if used incorrectly, can make melasma worse. This is not a condition to experiment on with aggressive at-home measures. In the UK, ask your GP for a referral; the British Association of Dermatologists and NHS both offer reliable patient information. If your melasma is affecting your confidence, or it appeared during pregnancy or after starting hormonal medication, a professional conversation is a sensible next step.

Melasma can be managed. With rigorous sun protection, a patient and gentle routine, and expert guidance where needed, most people can improve how their skin looks and keep flare-ups under better control.

Hyperpigmentation FAQs

Is melasma the same as ordinary sun spots?

No. Sun spots (age spots) are small, separate, well-defined marks caused mainly by cumulative UV exposure over years. Melasma is a larger, symmetrical, patchy discolouration linked strongly to hormones and heat as well as sunlight. Because the causes differ, so does management — which is why identifying the type first matters.

Will melasma go away on its own?

Sometimes. Melasma that appears during pregnancy or on the contraceptive pill can fade after hormone levels settle. Often, though, it lingers or returns, particularly with sun and heat exposure. It is best thought of as a long-term condition to manage consistently rather than something that reliably disappears by itself.

Can skincare clear melasma completely?

No product can permanently clear melasma. A good routine — led by daily broad-spectrum SPF and supported by gentle brightening ingredients — can help fade the appearance of the patches and prevent them worsening. Results build slowly over months, and stopping sun protection tends to undo the progress.

Why does my melasma get worse in summer?

Both UV light and heat are melasma triggers, and summer delivers plenty of both. Longer, brighter days stimulate pigment cells, while warm temperatures can independently prompt flare-ups. This is why year-round, reapplied sun protection is essential — and why melasma often looks calmer in the darker, cooler months.

Is a tinted sunscreen really better for melasma?

For many people, yes. Standard sunscreens protect against UV, but melasma can also be driven by visible light. A tinted mineral SPF with iron oxides adds a layer of defence against visible light, which plain formulas may miss. Worn daily and reapplied, it is one of the most useful single steps for melasma.

Should I see a dermatologist about melasma?

It is well worth it. Melasma is a medical condition that can be complex to treat, and some in-clinic procedures can worsen it if handled poorly. A dermatologist can confirm the diagnosis and design a safe, tailored plan. In the UK, ask your GP for a referral or consult NHS and British Association of Dermatologists resources.