Urea
Reviewed by Kate · Last updated 18 Aug 2026
Also known as: Carbamide, Hydroxyethyl Urea
The intense moisture binder
Best For Skin Types
Dry, rough skin
Addresses
Effective Concentrations
2-10%
Usage Frequency
As directed on product packaging
EWG Safety Score
What Is Urea?
Urea is a naturally occurring component of the skin Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), a complex of molecules that helps maintain skin hydration. As we age, our NMF decreases, making urea supplementation valuable for dry and mature skin.
At low concentrations (under 10%), urea acts as a powerful humectant, drawing moisture into the skin and helping it stay hydrated. At higher concentrations (10-40%), it also has keratolytic properties, gently exfoliating and softening rough, thick skin.
Urea is particularly effective for extremely dry skin conditions, including eczema, psoriasis, and keratosis pilaris. It can penetrate the stratum corneum effectively, delivering hydration to deeper layers of the skin.
Look for products with 5-10% urea for general moisturizing and 20-40% for treating very dry, rough, or callused skin. Urea works well with other humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
Benefits for Your Skin
Clinical Evidence & References
Urea has been extensively studied over several decades as a humectant and keratolytic agent, with robust clinical evidence supporting its dual mechanism of action. At concentrations below 10%, it functions as a powerful humectant by drawing moisture into the stratum corneum and replenishing the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor, which naturally declines with age. At higher concentrations (10–40%), urea demonstrates proven keratolytic properties, effectively softening and exfoliating hyperkeratotic skin. This makes it particularly valuable for conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and keratosis pilaris, where it can penetrate deep into the stratum corneum to deliver sustained hydration.
The evidence base reflects consistent findings across clinical trials, though individual response to urea can vary depending on baseline skin condition, formulation stability, and concentration used. Time-to-effect varies; humectant benefits are typically noticeable within days, whilst keratolytic effects develop more gradually over weeks of regular use. Tolerance is generally high, though some individuals with sensitive skin may experience mild irritation at higher concentrations, particularly during the first weeks of use.
Published Research
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Stability and efficacy of ascorbyl glucoside International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2004
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L-Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside enhances collagen synthesis Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, 1994
How to Use
Safety & Precautions
Frequently Asked Questions
From the Clinic
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