How to Reduce Smile Lines: What Skincare Can (and Can't) Do

Smile lines are one of the first things people notice when they look closely in the mirror, usually around their thirties, and they can feel oddly personal. They map the exact places your face moves most, and they are a normal part of a face that has laughed and expressed itself for years, not a sign that anything has gone wrong. No cream can undo them entirely, but a thoughtful skincare routine can help soften their appearance, keep the surrounding skin healthy and supported, and slow how quickly new ones settle in. This guide explains what smile lines actually are, why they form, and where skincare genuinely helps versus where an in-clinic conversation belongs.

What smile lines and nasolabial folds actually are

"Smile lines" is an everyday term that usually covers two related things. The first is the pair of creases running from the sides of your nose down to the corners of your mouth. These are your nasolabial folds, and everyone has them to some degree, even in youth. The second is the finer lines that fan out around the mouth and cheeks when you smile or talk. Both are shaped by the same underlying story.

Two forces are at work. The first is expression. Every time you smile, the muscles around your mouth fold the skin along the same lines. When you are young, the skin springs back flat. Over time, repeated folding leaves a trace that lingers even at rest. The second, and often the bigger factor for nasolabial folds specifically, is volume and structure. The face is padded with pockets of fat that sit over bone and beneath the skin. From your mid-thirties onwards those pads gradually shrink and shift downwards, and the underlying bone remodels too. As the cheek loses a little of its support, the tissue settles lower and the fold at its base deepens. This is why nasolabial folds are as much about facial architecture as they are about the skin's surface, and it is an important thing to understand: they are not simply a "wrinkle" you can smooth away with the right serum.

Why smile lines form when they do

Alongside expression and volume loss, the skin itself changes. From your mid-twenties, the body makes gradually less collagen and elastin, the proteins that keep skin firm and springy. Sun exposure speeds that decline dramatically; ultraviolet light breaks down collagen and is comfortably the largest controllable cause of lines forming early. Dehydration plays a supporting role too, as skin low on water looks less plump and shows lines more readily, while smoking, poor sleep and a very sugary diet all nudge things along. Understanding these levers tells you exactly where skincare can and cannot make a difference. For the bigger picture on prevention across the whole face, our ageing hub walks through a complete routine.

What skincare can genuinely do

Skincare works on the surface layers and on skin quality. It cannot rebuild lost facial fat or move bone, so it will not flatten a deep nasolabial fold. What it can do is help the skin look smoother, firmer and better hydrated, which softens the look of fine lines and keeps them from becoming more noticeable than they need to be. Consistency over months, not days, is what delivers results.

Retinoids: the best-evidenced ingredient

Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol are the most robustly studied ingredient for the appearance of lines. They encourage skin cell turnover and support collagen in the upper layers, which over time can help smooth texture and soften the look of fine lines around the mouth. Start low and slow: a pea-sized amount two or three nights a week, applied to dry skin, building up as your skin tolerates it. Retinoids can be drying and increase sun sensitivity, so pair them with a good moisturiser and daily SPF. Avoid them in pregnancy.

Peptides and other supportive actives

Peptides are small chains of amino acids that signal to skin, and some are included in serums and creams to support a firmer-looking surface. They tend to be gentle and layer well with other ingredients, which makes them a sensible partner to a retinoid. Vitamin C, used in the morning, supports collagen and brightens, while niacinamide helps strengthen the skin barrier so everything else is better tolerated.

Hydration and barrier support

Well-hydrated skin simply looks plumper, and plumper skin shows fewer fine lines. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin draw water into the upper layers to plump the look of the skin, while richer moisturisers with ceramides seal it in. This will not touch a structural fold, but it makes a real, visible difference to the finer lines that surround it, and it is the fastest-acting part of any routine.

Daily SPF: the non-negotiable

If you do only one thing, make it this. A broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning protects the collagen you still have from the single biggest cause of premature lines. It is the most effective preventive step in skincare, full stop, and it makes every other active work harder. You can build a whole routine around these ingredients from our anti-ageing skincare edit.

Where a clinic comes in

Because nasolabial folds are largely about lost volume and structure, the treatments that address them most directly are in-clinic procedures rather than creams. Dermal fillers, for example, are sometimes used to replace lost volume, and other treatments target muscle movement or stimulate collagen more aggressively than topicals can. These are medical procedures with real considerations and are simply an in-clinic option to discuss with a qualified professional who can assess your face in person. They sit outside what skincare does, so this guide does not attempt to advise on them; if you are curious, a consultation with a reputable practitioner is the right next step. Many people find a solid skincare routine handles the finer lines well and gives them a clear sense of whether they want to explore anything further at all.

A realistic routine to start with

Keep it simple and sustainable. In the morning: a gentle cleanse, a vitamin C or hydrating serum, a moisturiser, and SPF without fail. In the evening: cleanse, a retinoid a few nights a week (a hydrating serum or peptide product on the nights you skip it), and a nourishing moisturiser. Give any new routine at least twelve weeks before you judge it, take a photo at the start so you can compare fairly, and resist piling on too many actives at once. Steady and gentle wins here. To understand the underlying skin changes in more detail, our guide to what fine lines are is a good companion read.

Fine Lines FAQs

Can you get rid of smile lines with skincare alone?

Skincare cannot fully smooth away smile lines, particularly the deeper nasolabial folds, because those are largely caused by lost facial volume and structure that creams cannot rebuild. What a consistent routine of retinoids, peptides, hydration and daily SPF can do is soften the look of the finer lines and keep the surrounding skin healthy and supported over time.

At what age do smile lines usually appear?

Most people begin to notice smile lines lingering at rest in their thirties, though this varies widely. Sun exposure, genetics, skin hydration and how expressive your face is all influence the timing. People with a lot of sun exposure or who smoke often see them earlier, which is why daily SPF from a young age is the single most useful preventive habit.

Does drinking water reduce smile lines?

Staying hydrated supports overall skin health, but drinking water alone will not visibly reduce smile lines. Topical hydration matters more here: ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin draw water into the upper layers of skin to plump its appearance, which softens the look of finer lines. Pair that with a moisturiser to seal the hydration in.

Is retinol or hyaluronic acid better for smile lines?

They do different jobs and work best together. Retinol supports skin renewal and collagen over months, gradually helping to soften the look of lines. Hyaluronic acid hydrates and plumps the skin's appearance quickly but temporarily. A common approach is a retinoid a few nights a week for long-term texture, with hyaluronic acid used regularly for immediate plumpness and comfort.

What is the difference between smile lines and nasolabial folds?

The terms overlap. Nasolabial folds are the two creases that run from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth, present to some degree in everyone. "Smile lines" is a broader everyday term that also includes the finer lines fanning out around the mouth when you smile. Folds are more about facial structure and volume; the finer lines are more surface-level.

Can facial exercises reduce smile lines?

Evidence for facial exercises is limited and mixed. Since expression and repeated muscle movement contribute to lines forming in the first place, deliberately exercising those muscles is unlikely to reduce them and could, in theory, do the opposite. Your time and effort are far better spent on daily SPF, a well-tolerated retinoid and good hydration, which have genuine evidence behind them.